Covered mains outlet

[securespark]

You don't necessarily need a fused outlet - you can take the ring to a DP switch and run an unswitched s/o from the load terms into which you plug your fridge.

 

[plugwash]

seems like it's common practice to use them to feeed sockets below worktop and if they are above the appliance it should be bloody obvious what they aer controlling

only other options are either sockets in cupboards which is considered bad for accesibility reasons or sockets on the ring behind the applice which are even worse in this regard

ofc if you care that much you can always label it

while you can use a 20A siwtch instead of a fcu it is underrated for the ring breaker and doesn't really save you much

 

[aidy_is]

Re: design flaws. How come the light on irons only goes off when they've reached full operational (burning) temperature. That's sensible! It'd be stupid to do it the other way around eh! Maybe electric hobs should do the same.
@

 

[securespark]

Plug

20A is not underrated - the load side (ie current flowing through the switch) will be drawing 13A max.

The feed side is only a means of joining the ring conductors together. And those terminals are capable of carrying in excess of 20A.

Anyway, you could use a 32A switch. Need not, but could.

 

[securespark]

The problem if you use fcu's and sockets is that you have a fuse in both the fcu and the plugtop.

 

[plugwash]

i suppose it's ok

i generally belive that cable runs should be adequately fused at source wherever possible

2 fuses may be a small pain as you don't knwo which will blow so it may be harder to work out which to replace but this also applies to extention lead situations

anyway in my experiance 13A plug fises very rarely blow