screw under the nose at about 30 degrees make sure the shaft is tight to the nose off the tread this will both make sure the screw catches the tread as it comes out the back but also tighten as the head forces its way under the nosing
screw under the nose at about 30 degrees make sure the shaft is tight to the nose off the tread this will both make sure the screw catches the tread as it comes out the back but also tighten as the head forces its way under the nosing
yes but as tight as you can get to under the nose with the shaft because the riser will be perhaps 12mm so as it breaks out the back it will be perhaps 3 or 4mm up into the tread any less it may jump out and run along the tread bottom edge
if it does skip out the bottom stop with the head 10mm short off the riser and stand on the tread quite hard above the screw to embed the screw head into the nosing then at least its supporting the load
then iff needed increase to pehaps 35 degrees or 5more than the one that missed
other things you can do because its 100% going to be hidden is say drill 5 x6mm holes along the line off the riser from above going 15mm deep assuming 26mm thick tread and pump in the foaming glue cover the holes with paper and something heavy to encourage spreading underneath where you want it
and dont leave anything under the stairs that will be damaged by foaming glue for at least a week
I've just renovated our stairs as I had the same issue. our house is 90 years old so plenty of use!!.
On the risers I had 4mm ply boards cut I then glued and screwed these in place. I then, fitted new trim at the top and bottom of the riser to strengthen the join this was pinned and glued. On the tread I drilled through to the riser and put 3 screws in each step. one middle, one left, one right.
Where I could get under the stairs ( I couldn't get to all of them) I used:
you need a caulking gun, and don't need to use loads as it expands. I put it where ever I could see a gap. It cured the creaking and the stairs now feel solid.
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