Cut Roof Support

[masona]

Just had another look at the purlin. The place where it is cut has twisted a bit and looks like fixing will be difficult.

Don't worry that's normal They will pull up but don't worry if they don't.

It has also had a screw put through the cut from the underneath going upwards. You can see part of the screw in the opening that has now appeared. When you say attach the wood to the purling, do you mean from the front to the back?

Yes.

If I go upwards I would need a bolt a foot long!

You go though the thickness of the timber, so you have a timber thickness of 2" + 3" purlin + 2" = 7", so will need at least 8" coach bolts to allow to tighten the timber connectors as well or better still use stud bolts or known as threaded bolt then cut off the length you need. Available from Screwfix from 300mm to 1000mm

Also a bonus is to hire a couple of big G-Clamp will hold all the timber in place temparory while drilling

The purling is 6"x3", should I get the wood the same size and attach it to front and back?

From your photo they look like 8"x2" but 6"x2" will be okay.

I just want to make sure I`m following your instructions right. Also, do you think this is a job I can do? I am a woman but not frightened to get stuck in.
Viv.

I don't know but it's no harm in buying the materials and see how you get on, you will need another person to help you, if you're still not sure get back to us

 

[masona]

Also where the roof rafters resting on the bottom wallplate on the outside walls is normally notched out is called a birdmouth, is that still a good fit, another word not moving away slightly from the wallplate If you're not sure take a photo so we can see

 

[vivyorks]

Hi Masona,
Looked up on the net what you were talking about and decided it looked like I was gonna be spending some time in the loft! So I have just attached two light fixings to the apex of the roof to give me plenty of light
Now this bird thing...I am gonna get some more pics and pick your brains some more. Just hope I take the pics of the right things!
Don`t suppose your single Will attach pics A.S.A.P.
Viv.

 

[masona]

Don`t suppose your single Will attach pics A.S.A.P.

What a picture of you, how did we get here

Sometime the birdsmouth can be flat and not notched out.

 

[vivyorks]

Dear Masona,
I ment I would get the pics of the roof A.S.A.P. lol
Viv.

 

[vivyorks]

HI again,
Sorry about the delay between posts. But I have to rely on other people to help me. I have some more pics.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/...cket.com/albums/n6/vivyorks/roof004.jpg[/img] Hope I did that right and it helps.
I could not see the birdmouth that you were asking about. But I think the rest looks ok. Thanks, Viv.

 

[vivyorks]

and

and

and

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n6/vivyorks/roof004.jpg

 

[vivyorks]

and

 

[masona]

Okay, can't see the wallplate unless the insulation is moved back a bit, bet it's hot up there!

On top of the purlin job, run the whole length of 4"x2" upright against the bottom rafters & the ceiling joists with screws and use about 4 L-shape brackets over the wallplate and screw to the side ceiling joists or use these type of brackets

All this will strengten your roof by 100%, if you're not sure, get back as I wrote this very quickly

 

[Static]

It may be worth looking into placing a couple of steel plates either side of the diagonal joint in to purlin, then running a few bolts through the sandwich to secure it from future movement. In effect a stronger version of what masona is suggesting for the purlin

 

[vivyorks]

Hi Masona,
Me again. Struck a problem . Finally got the wood and got it up in the loft!! Got it the length of the purling, give or take. When I put it against the purling, because of the angle of the cut in the purling, the new bit went sailing off into mid air about half way down and means I would only be able to fix about 18inches either side of the cut! So I have tried to get a metal plate instead. The bloke in B&Q said they did not do them and that I should get a MAN in to do it properly for me So thats where I am now. Lost as to what to do next apart from move HELP.
Viv.

 

[Static]

Good ol' B&Q can be relied on to employ 17yr old McDonalds employees. Your better off trying a timber speciallist ie Alsfords or Stamco they may be able to help if not try a steel fabricator. But as you have purchased Masona's timber you could try to get that to work. Almost sounds like the new piece of timber is bent (again if B&Q its most likely)

 

[masona]

When I put it against the purling, because of the angle of the cut in the purling, the new bit went sailing off into mid air about half way down and means I would only be able to fix about 18inches either side of the cut!

I think I know what you mean, don't try and straighten the purlin, drill a hole on each end of the new timber and bolted it altogether then drill the next hole inwards and tighten with bolts again and keep going. You will need a long drill bit to drill it in one go. A metal plate is a good idea but could be too heavy for you to work with

 

[vivyorks]

Hi Masona and Static,
I do not have much wood on either side of the cut in the purlin because of the angle it is now at. The purlin is no longer straight. Can only get about 18inches of timber either side of the cut before the angle comes into play. Also tried to get a metal plate, but have tried loads of roofers and shops and cannot find anyone that does them I seem to be hitting a wall when it comes to fixing this dam thing Do you think that the 18inches on each side will be enough?
Thanks, Viv.

 

[Static]

As far as getting a plate as its a structural support for a timber member you would need to get it made to order and it wont be light so may need 2 people to lift. Stick with the materials your happiest using - with most timber is nice and simple to move and cut holes in.

How long is the piece of timber you have in total?