cutting timber neatly

[jen0dorf]

Hi

firstly can I say I am unable to use a saw and cut a straight line!!!!!

I want to make a box structure to cover radiator pipes on at least four radiators
The box would be a varnished wood of some description.

So I need to cut the wood in a straight line without having the "ripped Wood effect."

Should I use a a pendulum jigsaw with a parallel guide or a circular saw or purchase a bench saw. I assume in every case I'll need t use a fine blade?

Anu suggestions would be appreciated

thanks

Ian

 

[ree]

Thing is that you dont want to suddenly start using power saws without "training".
And buying expensive tools for one job is a bit OTT.

If you can measure accurately then perhaps a local wood merchants or shed will cut and mitre for you - why not try it on one rad for a start?

 

[kingandy2nd]

One of my favourite tools is my dewalt plunge saw with guide rails, which cuts perfectly straight lines. (Cheaper models available).

I even modify my ikea furniture with it, where it doesn't fit into the spaces I want it to

 

[Justin Passing]

A cheap (~£30) chop saw is fine for planks a few inches wide ~125mm, (depending on the blade size). You need a decent fine blade, TC ones are better.

Another way is to use a Router, with a straight (use carbide) bit.
They come with a side fence or a flat part on the base. With a pair of clamps and a straight piece of wood to run along as a guide, you get a dead straight cut absolutely perpendicular and with no chips in veneers or laminates (assuming a little pre-thought & learning about directions).
Best to cut a little large (say 3mm) first with some other saw, then trim the rest off with the router.
Of course you can do neat rounded edges, chamfers, rebates etc with them as well.
A quarter inch collet tool will handle boards to about 15mm thick (like "Conti" board, just). A half inch router (1800W plus) will do kitchen worktops 40mm thick.

 

[big-all]

i make many many radiator covers out off pine and a small amount off mdf

with pine you need to laminate[glue side by side] 2 boards together ideally for the top as 5x1 par[22x 119mm] is the maximum as they will warp and shrink with the heat
a typical cover will need 1" clearence on the radiator all round if not a bit more
if your double is say 4" to the front face then 1" clearence then 3/4 for the wood thickness and an overhang on the front
so 100mm+25mm+22mm+22mm so around 169mm or around 7x1" par

now i could talk you through making your own but as the grill is so expensive you will save loads by bying ready made

 

[geraldthehamster]

Use a *sharp* rip saw and hold it at a shallower angle? I find it easier to get a straight cut with a hand saw than with a jigsaw.

Otherwise, I'd use a circular saw and clamp a strip of timber to the work as a guide.

Cheers
Richard

 

[gregers]

as others have said if you have no experience of power tools then i would say this project may be too much for you,if on the other hand then PLEASE gain some info/experience before taking any task on.
but as you have seen we are here to offer you advice if and when.

ive just posted up some pics in my albums of a rad cover i built for my house to cover up a dog ugly rad and a socket,7 FOOT LONG it took 3 of us to get it in .

 

[Nigel_Cro]

I never have been able to cut straight with a Jig Saw, and I own a decent one. But I can cut pretty straight and square with a nice sharp hand saw.

And a definite plus one for a good circular saw with the correct blade and a home made timber fence. Particularly if you have a lot of large stuff to cut.

 

[geraldthehamster]

There's no reason you can't use a jigsaw with a fence (provided the jigsaw foot is dead straight and in line with the blade, or it will wander).

Cheers
Richard

 

[Nigel_Cro]

The problem I get is that the blade always seems to wander away from the fence - and once it starts it is impossible to get it back on track.

I have never properly mastered the jig saw. I only really use it when I can't do what I want with either a hand saw, circular saw or band saw.

 

[gregers]

doesnt matter how much you spend on a jiggy,they all wander.no matter what kind of fence is used.
skilly or a decent hand saw is the way to go.

 

[Nigel_Cro]

I had some steel angle to cut and the only way I could keep my Jig Saw straight was to make a jig to clamp it to, the jig held the blade straight on both sides so it couldn't wander.

I have been trying to justify a good quality compound mitre saw for a while now.

 

[geraldthehamster]

The problem I get is that the blade always seems to wander away from the fence - and once it starts it is impossible to get it back on track. I have never properly mastered the jig saw. I only really use it when I can't do what I want with either a hand saw, circular saw or band saw.

You're right, of course. If the foot is ever so slightly out of true (as many are after a bit of use), the saw will wander. Mine does.

Cheers
Richard

 

[big-all]

the secrete is to remove any plastic guids near the blade
line the blade up and watch the blade ignore the the machine body this will often be 2 or 3 degrees off parallel
if you start to go off line gradually pull back on line or retrace and nip several times until theres enough material for the blade to cut into rather than skim off to the side at the bottom edge

 

[foxhole]

you should read the forum sticky