Damp course and replaster.how do I prep before painting?

it is quite common for plasterers to plaster the bottom of wall and not the top, i think round about 1M.

Hi elrobbo

I thought it was standard practice to render rather than plaster, in the case of dry rot. Afterall dry rot can travel thru plaster

More than willing to accept that I might be wrong, often am...

If it was just rising damp, why dont they skim upwards after doing the bonding coat?
 
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it is quite common for plasterers to plaster the bottom of wall and not the top, i think round about 1M.

Hi elrobbo

I thought it was standard practice to render rather than plaster, in the case of dry rot. Afterall dry rot can travel thru plaster

More than willing to accept that I might be wrong, often am...

If it was just rising damp, why dont they skim upwards after doing the bonding coat?

probably just saving time on the job but TBH not a plasterer so not 100 percent sure. just come across it quite often.
didn't see dry rot in the opening post
 
Perhaps one of the spreads will be along later, they will be able to offer the correct advice.

Dec
 
Thanks for all the replies!

It was done about 6 weeks ago. I have waited as I was told to let it all dry and i've been told to use a non vinyl paint.

i'm afraid im a total novice at DIY type things so I have no idea what type of damp it was. They chipped away old plaster to about a metre high,then plastered and skimmed the bottom half of the wall.

But the join is very very lumpy and bumpy...if this isn't normal then I will call the company back as it was expensive to get the work done rather than attempt easy fill etc myself.

Really appreciate everyone taking the time to respond, thank you x
 
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In theory, the damp-proofing company/plasterer should have made the join blend in so that it isn't noticeable. Your 'lumpy and bumpy' description suggests this isn't the case so calling them back would be my first thought. Unfortunately, I have come across this situation a lot and generally end up doing the blending in myself, as waiting for them to come back can delay everything.

If you have had a sand and cement basecoat followed by plaster skim then you should ideally leave it a few months to dry before applying any paint, as has already been suggested. The non-vinyl emulsion will continue to allow any moisture to escape so if you need to paint sooner than this it is the only type of paint you should use until you are sure that everything is fully dry. With that in mind, you should have time to get the damp-proofing company back to even out the plastering.
 
elrobbo";p="2175483 said:
i tend to fill the join with easy fill and sand smooth. use watered down matt emulsion for your first coat. i thin my emulsion from 20 - 30 percent depending on manufacturer.

Where can I find this 'Easy fill' stuff? Is it a DIY shed or specialist purchase?
Thanks.
 
You can get it in the sheds, if you have a B&Q near you, they stock it.

Dec
 
ray99,

I have a Homebase near me and I can't recall Gyproc Easifill ever stocked.

Dec
 
Why did you post earlier this evening with the username elrobbo, and why now do you assume the username elrobbo82, do you also intend to post again using the username decelec??????????

Dec
 
Why did you post earlier this evening with the username elrobbo, and why now do you assume the username elrobbo82, do you also intend to post again using the username decelec??????????

Dec

the situation has been resolved via the mods and i am longer going to use my other accounts and there will be no more squabbling. this is now my only account and i will just be posting relevant comments from now on. :D
 

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