DAMP decision

Our 30 year guarantee is for rising damp only and not penetrative damp which is subject to forces such as leaky guttering/drains and lashing rain therefore not guaranteed and paying extra would not make any difference to eligibility

That is priceless.

I assume one of their sales people came out and told you that the property had rising damp that would require a remedial injected damp proof course. Did they provide you with a written quote stating this?

They then inject it at the wrong height and totally ignore the raised ground level bridging the existing DPC. And then they turn round and say it was penetrating damp all along so their guarantee is not valid.

Forget the guarantee ask for your money back on the grounds of
mis-representation and faulty workmanship. It is firms like this that give the industry such a bad name.
 
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Our 30 year guarantee is for rising damp only and not penetrative damp which is subject to forces such as leaky guttering/drains and lashing rain therefore not guaranteed and paying extra would not make any difference to eligibility

That is priceless.

I assume one of their sales people came out and told you that the property had rising damp that would require a remedial injected damp proof course. Did they provide you with a written quote stating this?

They then inject it at the wrong height and totally ignore the raised ground level bridging the existing DPC. And then they turn round and say it was penetrating damp all along so their guarantee is not valid.

Forget the guarantee ask for your money back on the grounds of
mis-representation and faulty workmanship. It is firms like this that give the industry such a bad name.

The orginal quote said

Drill at d.p.c level, approx. 4 ½" to 5" centres and varying depths to suit wall thickness from internal face where possible.

Including all necessary vertical d.p.c.'s, pressure inject chemical damp-proof course to arrest rising damp using injection cream.

Apply two coats of tanking medium to walls as marked on drawing or use membrane if plaster thickness allows.

Re-plaster walls in cement based renovation plaster to within 2" of floor level and skim to a smooth finish.

Bitumen seal and re-fix salvaged skirting boards.

Terms net and due on our completion.

30 year guarantee supplied with receipted invoice.

30 year assured guarantees available for 5% + VAT of net invoice figure, subject to a minimum charge of £40.00 + VAT.
 
You have a solid Victorian brick wall (headers and stretchers in evidence) that has been externally painted, probably several years ago, probably several times. There are some gaps in the paintwork where bricks have been replaced.

The wall was not intended to be painted externally.

Masonry paint is often supposed to be vapour permeable - that is, the masonry should be able to dry out through the paint coat. However, many variables can affect this - notably, multiple coats of paint over time can be as much of a barrier as a render coat. The only permeable wallcovering (external or internal) that can be overlaid, is a traditional limewash, which chemically changes to calcium carbonate as it weathers.

Paint can stop the brickwork and mortar courses from drying out as bare brickwork would do as originally built.

During a wet winter like our last, walls can become saturated, and need to dry out by evaporation - if external paint prevents this, the damp will eventually work through to the inside.

The salts in the brickwork will get into the plaster and damage the wallcovering, such as paint or wallpaper. Then the plaster eventually will lose integrity and fall off. Salt-contaminated plaster will need to be replaced in order to achieve a satisfactory paint finish.

Tanking will merely seal the damp in the wall, preventing it from drying out forever.

So - you have a working DPC and an external wall partly sealed with old paint, and only one route for the moisture to escape - through the internal walls.

Try to get a quote to restore the external wall to its original state - bare brickwork and lime mortar pointing, that will function as originally intended.

If the internal plasterwork has to be replaced, consider a traditional lime plaster solution, rather than contemporary building materials - cement renders and gypsum plaster
 
"Apply two coats of tanking medium to walls as marked on drawing or use membrane if plaster thickness allows."

Something does not add up here. If they are saying that they have tanked the wall then the damp should not be coming in through the raised external ground level. Either the tanking is faulty or the damp is coming from somewhere else.

I think it is time to get an independent damp surveyor, probably the best £200 you'll spend on this project.
 
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if im reading it right,they tanked to the height of the new chemical dpc?
so they knew of the penetrating damp problem you had anyway because of the high outside ground level.
so why did they install the dpc TOO low?
even when a physical dpc is used you will notice the outside ground level will be 6" below as said already this is to allow for splash.
 
You have a suspended wood floor - suspended means being over a space - that space is the crawl space.

If you genuinely dont have a trap(door) for going under the suspended floor then one has to be cut - typically in an out-of-the-way place such as under the stairs.

Given a suspended floor, then where are the air vents (or air bricks) that should ventilate that suspended floor?
No air bricks/vents are visible in the driveway pic. Maybe the new driveway has covered them?

The exterior arrangement that you removed pebbles from is probably a sump entrance for draining the new driveway. Put the pebbles back, you have interfered with your neighbour's property.
The driveway has been sloped to drain against your property - probably against Bldg Regs.

You should post a scanned section view of the interior FFL's and the external ground level of the new drive. Ground level is required by Regs to be 150mm below your DPC.

So far, you seem to have associated yourself with idiots, expensive idiots.

You have received many acute, expert and intelligent suggestions from others on here, perhaps you will heed them.
 
You have a solid Victorian brick wall (headers and stretchers in evidence) that has been externally painted, probably several years ago, probably several times. There are some gaps in the paintwork where bricks have been replaced.

The wall was not intended to be painted externally.

Masonry paint is often supposed to be vapour permeable - that is, the masonry should be able to dry out through the paint coat. However, many variables can affect this - notably, multiple coats of paint over time can be as much of a barrier as a render coat. The only permeable wallcovering (external or internal) that can be overlaid, is a traditional limewash, which chemically changes to calcium carbonate as it weathers.

Paint can stop the brickwork and mortar courses from drying out as bare brickwork would do as originally built.

During a wet winter like our last, walls can become saturated, and need to dry out by evaporation - if external paint prevents this, the damp will eventually work through to the inside.

The salts in the brickwork will get into the plaster and damage the wallcovering, such as paint or wallpaper. Then the plaster eventually will lose integrity and fall off. Salt-contaminated plaster will need to be replaced in order to achieve a satisfactory paint finish.

Tanking will merely seal the damp in the wall, preventing it from drying out forever.

So - you have a working DPC and an external wall partly sealed with old paint, and only one route for the moisture to escape - through the internal walls.

Try to get a quote to restore the external wall to its original state - bare brickwork and lime mortar pointing, that will function as originally intended.

If the internal plasterwork has to be replaced, consider a traditional lime plaster solution, rather than contemporary building materials - cement renders and gypsum plaster

This is a VERY interesting post. The reason I say this is because we noticed that the same paint used was used to pain the wooden park benches over the road. The other day we noticed that the benches were dry and where the paint had flaked off and still damp where the paint was still there.

We were wondering if the paint was perhaps stopping moisture from escaping? you seem to be suggesting the same thing.

The only issues are 1) how much would it cost? and 2) as it is an external wall, wouldn't it being exposed just lead to more damp problems?
 
"Apply two coats of tanking medium to walls as marked on drawing or use membrane if plaster thickness allows."

Something does not add up here. If they are saying that they have tanked the wall then the damp should not be coming in through the raised external ground level. Either the tanking is faulty or the damp is coming from somewhere else.

I think it is time to get an independent damp surveyor, probably the best £200 you'll spend on this project.

Hi wessex,

Thanks for the advice. where would I find someone like that? I had a company called 'Peter Cox' come round and they weren't particularly helpful. What kind of qualifications should I look for?

im reading it right, they tanked to the height of the new chemical dpc?
so they knew of the penetrating damp problem you had anyway because of the high outside ground level.
so why did they install the dpc TOO low?
even when a physical dpc is used you will notice the outside ground level will be 6" below as said already this is to allow for splash

The damp was originally lower. When they did the work the damp disappeared for a few months. After a while it returned above the height of the tanking. The photos show a height of about my shoulder level so it's impossible (really) just to keep going higher.
 
You have a suspended wood floor - suspended means being over a space - that space is the crawl space.

If you genuinely dont have a trap(door) for going under the suspended floor then one has to be cut - typically in an out-of-the-way place such as under the stairs.

There is a pantry under the stairs, all the terraced houses around here are build like this.

Given a suspended floor, then where are the air vents (or air bricks) that should ventilate that suspended floor?
No air bricks/vents are visible in the driveway pic. Maybe the new driveway has covered them?

There are a couple of vents in the front. There is a vent in the side that was covered with stones etc it's on the picture.

The exterior arrangement that you removed pebbles from is probably a sump entrance for draining the new driveway. Put the pebbles back, you have interfered with your neighbour's property.

It's a student house and it had just filled up with junk over the last 3 years. small stones, soil, broken glass and that kind of thing. I don't think it was a 'slump entrance' as there is (not in the picture) a drain that runs along the driveway.

The driveway has been sloped to drain against your property - probably against Bldg Regs.

I've contacted the council but they are completely unwilling to do anything about it. The guy refused to even talk to me. I sent a letter of complaint and the council gave it to THE GUY! hahahahaha. He then wrote back "as I told you previously..." so much for accountability.

You should post a scanned section view of the interior FFL's and the external ground level of the new drive. Ground level is required by Regs to be 150mm below your DPC.
what is an FFLS?

So far, you seem to have associated yourself with idiots, expensive idiots.
Well I have used 'reputable' companies so I don't know what to say about this.

You have received many acute, expert and intelligent suggestions from others on here, perhaps you will heed them.

I'm grateful for any advice I get. I'm at my wits-end. Which suggestion would you say is best one?

1. Remove the paint
2. get an idenpendant damp surveyor
3. dig an trench down the side
4. apply internal tanking to waterproof the wall from the penetrating damp and re-plaster.
 
Ok so I got a professional damp guy round. Another £200 on this endless problem. Here are his suggestions. He's not convinced lowering the neighbours drive with necessarily solve the problem. He also thinks removing the paint and applying "a breathable waterproof barrier" would help. His suggestion to cure this problem once and for all is as follows:

remove all the plaster, affix an air gap membrane system to the wall, overlay that with thermal backed plaster board and skim finish.


Any thoughts?
 
is this still going on,a wall in front of a wall.so the original problem is just going to hidden behind a plastic membrane so any moisture runs down it into a trap at the bottom of the plastic then either just evaporates or runs into a drain of some sort??.

if it was mine i would remove all plaster work within the area,synapruff(or whatever they use now?)3 coats.last coat blinded then sand/cement.thats should sort it.
 
@Yamato - FFLS = Finished Floor Levels.

Can you do a sketch (this is a quick eg in MS Paint):

to show relative levels of the floor, drive, height where "damp" is showing, any original damp course eg in green here (look at the front/rear of your house, where you may see it), etc. Plus any replastering that's been done, or anything else relevant.

I'd worry about the drain in the drive. As you've removed the contents, can you see where the water goes? Tip some in, does it disappear?


@the experts - exactly what qualification should someone look for when selecting a consultant on damp problems. It seems to be a minefield.
 
From the position of the damp, I would guess you are looking in the wrong direction.
The damp appears to be above the damp proof courses.
It is possible that the roof is leaking and the water is sinking down the wall and being trapped above the damp proof course.
The problem could also be down to leaking gutters, flashing, down pipes and internal pipes leaking.
Think, does the problem get better after long dry periods.
Does it get worse after heavy rain.
Which way does the prevailing wind blow? Is the wall exposed to strong winds and blown rain.
Is your bathroom on that side, kitchen, toilet, washing machine?
During heavy rain, does the water run towards the wall, or away?
 
Sorry, I didn't see these new replies. For some reason the site isn't telling me about replies anymore.

ok, I'll try to whip up a paint drawing but my artistic skills leave a bit to be desired.

In reply to Roger's questions

From the position of the damp, I would guess you are looking in the wrong direction.
The damp appears to be above the damp proof courses.
it is. Though recently it's started to appear below it again. The damp surveyor suggested it perhaps wasn't injected at the right level. He thought I should contact injecta and see if they had made sure to account for the outside floor level being higher.

This seemed like a bit of an odd suggestion because you're basically asking them 'did you do your job right?' to which they will reply 'yes'.

It is possible that the roof is leaking and the water is sinking down the wall and being trapped above the damp proof course.

possible though, I don't see why there wouldn't be any second floor damp issues? The second floor is totally problem free.

The problem could also be down to leaking gutters, flashing, down pipes and internal pipes leaking.
internal leaking pipes is an interesting one but I'm not sure how I could find out about that. It's also an old house so a lot of the pipes are visible.

Think, does the problem get better after long dry periods.
Does it get worse after heavy rain.

first started in 2012 after the huge rain fall we got in April. We'd been in the house 1.5 years before that without even a hint of trouble.

Which way does the prevailing wind blow? Is the wall exposed to strong winds and blown rain.
I have no idea. I don't even know how to find that out :)

Is your bathroom on that side, kitchen, toilet, washing machine?

bathroom etc is above the kitchen which isn't affected.

During heavy rain, does the water run towards the wall, or away?

Neither I think. It's a flat surface.
 

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