Daunting task ahead - which paint please?

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Am about to embark on sanding down my stained stair handrail and spindles. I have read much advice on this site but hoping saomeone can give me a good suggestion for my particular case.

12 years ago the spindles were new and had Crown Trade WoodStain Finishcoat which I am assuming is oil based?

If I want to put white satin/gloss what are the (easiest) steps I need?
 
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Sand down with a 300/400 grit wet and dry and undercoat using an oil based white undercoat. If there is low natural light then maybe think of going for a water based satin or gloss. If you want a oil gloss finish I would maybe go for crown solo as it seems to be the best oil gloss around at the moment. Bare in mind the oil gloss will start to yellow pretty quick where as the water based stuff doesn't. You might have to apply a couple of coats of undercoat over the woodstain and apply knotting to the knots prier to the undercoating stage. With crown solo you will be able to apply less undercoat as it is self undercoating.

Don't for get to lightly sand between coats and dust off well.
 
Woodstains and varnishes both contain a knotting agent, so there is no need to apply a knotting solution. place a squirt of household detergent into some warm water and then some 400 grit wet, allow to soak and apply either Crown Solo satin or gloss, it is of course true that all oil based systems yellow after time, yet for the diyer the waterbased route can be difficult regarding both longevity and application.

Dec
 
place a squirt of household detergent into some warm water and then some 400 grit wet, allow to soak and apply either Crown Solo satin or gloss

Are you saying "use warm soapy water and sand at the same time??"

Based on other stuff I have read here, do I only need a light sand as I want to keep the knotting agent in place?

There is low natural light in the hallway, doors and skirting have yellowed over the years. What would the water based approach be?
 
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place a squirt of household detergent into some warm water and then some 400 grit wet, allow to soak and apply either Crown Solo satin or gloss

Are you saying "use warm soapy water and sand at the same time??"

Yes, that is what Dec is saying - it helps with the sanding process to use wet paper. It keeps dust down as well as making the rubbing down less stop-start and leaves a very smooth finish. Just make sure you remove all sanding residue with a clean damp cloth and allow to dry before painting.
Sanding pads can be useful if you have intricately turned spindles.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Pai...Paper/Contour Sanding Pads/d150/sd1730/p10736

What would the water based approach be?

Using water based products over oil based can be tricky and the only real way to guarantee longevity with a water based paint system is to sand back hard and go through the whole process of knotting solution, primer/undercoat and topcoat(s).
Another way is to use a high grip primer, along the lines of Zinsser (B-I-N or Bullseye), which can be applied directly to your woodwork without any need for sanding at all (unless you need to sand any current roughness). You can also use either of these with an oil based finish coat.

http://zinsseruk.com/shop/ProductList.aspx?cId=130
 
Hang on a minute, Zinsser B-I-N sounds like the perfect product, I can liight sand any rough bits, apply B-I-N and I can put on a water based paint on top?

What is the catch???
 
Hang on a minute, Zinsser B-I-N sounds like the perfect product, I can liight sand any rough bits, apply B-I-N and I can put on a water based paint on top?

What is the catch???

££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££££ ;)

Although for the amount of work involved in preparing balustrading it can be well worth it and has saved me plenty of time in the past.
 
Another benefit is the rapid dry times as it is a shellac based product. It really is great stuff but as mentioned very expensive,
 
ex-directory,

I am of the opinion that you wish to apply a waterbased paint system, if my assumption is correct, please let me know, and I will give you my word that you will receive the advice of which you require by early Friday morning.

The advice offered by MrH was very good advice, yet the application of waterbased systems can often be rather tricky, so it is important that we know that they are what you desire.

Dec
 
ex-directory,

I am of the opinion that you wish to apply a waterbased paint system, if my assumption is correct, please let me know, and I will give you my word that you will receive the advice of which you require by early Friday morning.

The advice offered by MrH was very good advice, yet the application of waterbased systems can often be rather tricky, so it is important that we know that they are what you desire.

Dec

Hi Dec, thanks for your earlier reply...

Yes, now thinking water based to avoid the yellowing. So my current thinking is...

1, Light sand any rough to touch areas
2, A good clean too remove any dust and rubbish
3, Allow to dry
4, Apply 1 coat of B-I-N
5, Very light sand
6, Apply 1-2 coats water based satin white paint - no brand chosen yet although I read here (possibly several years ago) Dulux Trade is good
 
Another benefit is the rapid dry times...

True, but it can also be a hindrance when painting intricate mouldings such as spindles where it may be difficult to keep a wet edge if you don't work quickly enough.

ex_directory

The above is something you need to be aware of and the same goes for any water based/acrylic gloss you may use which can be prone to brushmarks. You should use a good quality synthetic bristle brush with this type of paint and Johnstone's are widely regarded as producing some of the better water based products at the moment.
 

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