Daunting task ahead - which paint please?

I would agree with the recommendation of the Johnstones water based products. I would also recommend using a Purdy brush for the water based systems.

forgot to mention that if you are worried about the rapid drying times and possible brush marks you can use an additive called Floetrol which will keep the paint from drying to fast and will let the brush marks fall out better.
 
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Certainly can't argue with regard to Johnstones, and the Purdy, though expensive it is the finest of the synthetics. And within the next 24hrs you will be offered with regard to both product an application, the advice you need.

Dec
 
Yes. Acrylic is water based. I agree with what the others have said but prefer a rougher grit paper as it makes a better key for the primer to grip to - and sands down the imperfections from the previous coat. I prefer 120 grit - but each to his own.
 
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Hmm, was recomended the "Contractor Pro" brush set as Johnstones, 5 synthetic brushes for £13.

Was hoping this would do the job - A set of 3 purdy brushes at Toolstation is £25

I would also agree with Purdy brushes being the best but Hamilton T-Class are not bad, IMO. I wouldn't recommend any brush that has the word 'contractor' in it's name - it's usually just a way of making cheap brushes sound better than they are.

forgot to mention that if you are worried about the rapid drying times and possible brush marks you can use an additive called Floetrol which will keep the paint from drying to fast and will let the brush marks fall out better.

Yes, you can use Floetrol in the water based topcoat/s but don't use it in the B-I-N as that isn't water based. You might be able to use Owatrol but I'm not sure even that is suitable for shellac based products - I've never used it in them but maybe one of the other guys can put you (and me) right on that one.
 
Yes, you can use Floetrol in the water based topcoat/s but don't use it in the B-I-N as that isn't water based. You might be able to use Owatrol but I'm not sure even that is suitable for shellac based products - I've never used it in them but maybe one of the other guys can put you (and me) right on that one.

Maybe I wasn't as clear as I thought. The floetrol I mentioned is for use in the water based paints only. Owatrol is for solvent based paints, wouldn't have thought it would work on shellac based products but I'm willing to be proved wrong! ;)
 
Yes, you can use Floetrol in the water based topcoat/s but don't use it in the B-I-N as that isn't water based. You might be able to use Owatrol but I'm not sure even that is suitable for shellac based products - I've never used it in them but maybe one of the other guys can put you (and me) right on that one.

Maybe I wasn't as clear as I thought. The floetrol I mentioned is for use in the water based paints only. Owatrol is for solvent based paints, wouldn't have thought it would work on shellac based products but I'm willing to be proved wrong! ;)

Don't get me wrong, I was aiming my post at the OP just in case he misunderstood what you meant about where to use the Floetrol but I'm just wondering if anyone has used Owatrol with B-I-N rather than what we usually use for shellac products. Maybe I could have been clearer too. ;) ;)
 
OK guys I am all set for the weekend...

1, Light sand any rough to touch areas
2, A good clean with meths to remove any dust and rubbish
3, Allow to dry
4, Apply 1 to 2 coats of Zinsser B-I-N (will see after 1st coat)
5, Apply 1 to 2 coats of Johnstone Acrylic Satin White

I have my purdy brushes from toolstation (although they look and feel the same as the contractor pro ones from Johnstones but I am assuming there is something hidden in the purdys)

I am not worrying about the Floetrol/Owatrol stuff as it is the B-I-N that dries fast.

Now, who wants to see pictures before and after?
 
Two flights, have one flight with two coats on nearly everywhere. Starting to look good. I have pictures of progress on my camera, will hopefully post in next couple of days.

Have one problem though maybe someone could help with...

Have a few gaps/dents I want to fill, don't really want to use dec caulk as it doesn't seem to last many years - anyone recommend any brand names I can pick from a diy store/merchants?
 

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