Dedicated socket for fridge

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I'm currently fitting a new kitchen and I want to have a dedicated power source hidden behind the cupboards for the fridge. There is currently a socket above the area were I would like to fit it , how do I check whether this socket would be suitable to come off?
 
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justy_r said:
, how do I check whether this socket would be suitable to come off?

you cant, it would not be dedicated if you did.

if you want to spur off it thats different. why do you want to do have a dedicated socket?
 
my apologies,
I meant a spur. I basically just want to hide the leads to make it look neat.
 
Put it on its own radial from the CU.

That way you can have it on the non-RCD side of the board, unlike all the other sockets in the kitchen.
 
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Good advice b-a-s, that way I can avoid any nasty defrosting incidents caused by trips.
Cheers mate
 
any real benefit from using a couple of FCUs with flex outlets for wiring in the fridge/freezer rather than plug sockets? I originally had this idea so nobody in the future would plug something into a non-RCD protected socket, but now the appliances have been sited a couple more feet away from the power outlet you wont be able to pull them very far out from the wall with them hard wired to an FCU (not that pulling them out is a frequent thing, but...). Would I be better just sticking some sockets on instead (and maybe labelling them 'not RCD protected')?
 
daveaspy said:
Would I be better just sticking some sockets on instead (and maybe labelling them 'not RCD protected')?

That would be fine, although I'd use "Do not use for equipment outdoors" or similar. You could get a non-standard plug socket if you want the ease of unplugging with the protection of not being able to plug just anything in. They are a specialist item, though.

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Michael
 
one good option can be to use 15A round pin sockets

this has the added advantage of meaning the only fuse is accessible in the FCU and unliek the non standard 13A ones they are a standard and so are more likely to remain available
 
plugwash said:
one good option can be to use 15A round pin sockets

Good point. Just make sure to specify shuttered sockets and insulated plug pins (BS 546/A).

--
Michael
 
Interesting how the definition of a socket which might reasonably be used to power outside equipment has changed. Anything under a worktop normally behind equipment might arguably not be expected to be used for outdoor equipment.

Otherwise, maybe all upstairs sockets should have a 'no RCD!' label, just in case someone plugs in an extension lead and throws the end out of the window. I have seen this done more than once where it turns out to be the most convenient socket to reach the garden.

On the other hand, there is not much point specially providing a non rcd socket for the fridge if no one can tell which one it is.
 
Damocles said:
Interesting how the definition of a socket which might reasonably be used to power outside equipment has changed. Anything under a worktop normally behind equipment might arguably not be expected to be used for outdoor equipment.
Cupboards and worktops can move.

Sockets can be spurred or the ring or radial extended.

Otherwise, maybe all upstairs sockets should have a 'no RCD!' label, just in case someone plugs in an extension lead and throws the end out of the window. I have seen this done more than once where it turns out to be the most convenient socket to reach the garden.
I can think of no good reason not to have upstairs sockets on an RCD anyway..
 
Hi BAS,
I agree about putting all sockets on RCD, but this is still often not the case, and still not regulation.

I also agree about people moving things in the kitchen. That seems to me the real problem about having dedicated non RCD power for the fridge. Still quite likely the socket will end up under the counter. More likely it will become pointless because the fridge has moved than that it will end up powering outdoors.
 
this was the conundrum, because there are now numerous rcd protected sockets in the kitchen as well as a pair of protected sockets under the worktop for powering the gas cooker and washing machine. Perhaps nobody would use the non-protected fridge sockets for anything else in the current configuration, but if someone rips out the kitchen in the future they might not know that 2 of the sockets are not protected.
 
Hence the reason to use some sort of non-standard socket on its own radial. Either they won't be able to use it, or they'll have to replace the socket, which will mean turning off the circuit, which will mean finding that it's non-RCD...
 

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