DeWalt mitre saw dcs365n any good?

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I've seen it demonstrated, and it's pretty good, but you really want 5Ah batteries with it.
 
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We had a guy on our project using one of these a few months back to cut roofing insulation battening as well as some 3x2 CLS framing. He seemed to do OK with it although he was using the bigger 5Ah batteries and he did say the saws were sensitive to blade sharpness (they use extremely thin sppecial blades in the same way that cordless rop saws do). I didn't seem to bog down particularly on that sort of gear.

It may be worth stating that I've framed out entire floors of buildings in 3 x 2 and 4 x 2 softwood using just a speed square and a Makita 18 volt cordless (brushless) rip saw - and the same applies, namely your blades must be sharp, they must be the ultra thin ones made for cordless saws (and BTW the DW ones run rings round Makita, Dart and Trend products) and you need one or possibly two 5Ah batteries to run for a day on a fresh 24t blade. Did similar work in the past with the brushed version of the saw and that was deffo 3 x 3Ah or more in a long day. Of course if you are using other tools on the same battery system it's less of a push
 
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The 5AH batteries don't provide any greater power, but they do provide longer run time. If the saw is being used heavily, and you don't have a 30 minute charger, you may find you run of battery before the spare has recharged. In a nice world, a 4AH battery, with a 1 hour charger may well be fine.
 
You have of course another option of the 6Ah flexvolt battery if you can stomach £100 a pop
 
You have of course another option of the 6Ah flexvolt battery if you can stomach £100 a pop

We had a guy on our project using one of these a few months back to cut roofing insulation battening as well as some 3x2 CLS framing. He seemed to do OK with it although he was using the bigger 5Ah batteries and he did say the saws were sensitive to blade sharpness (they use extremely thin sppecial blades in the same way that cordless rop saws do). I didn't seem to bog down particularly on that sort of gear.

It may be worth stating that I've framed out entire floors of buildings in 3 x 2 and 4 x 2 softwood using just a speed square and a Makita 18 volt cordless (brushless) rip saw - and the same applies, namely your blades must be sharp, they must be the ultra thin ones made for cordless saws (and BTW the DW ones run rings round Makita, Dart and Trend products) and you need one or possibly two 5Ah batteries to run for a day on a fresh 24t blade. Did similar work in the past with the brushed version of the saw and that was deffo 3 x 3Ah or more in a long day. Of course if you are using other tools on the same battery system it's less of a push

when you say rip saw do you mean handsaw?

Also, are you saying the blades need checking a lot and possibly changed as they lose their sharpness?
 
This one is the cheapest I could find-
https://www.cnspowertools.co.uk/dew...th-xps-184mm?gclid=CJOlv8f--dECFW8B0wodWUwH0A
Can I trust this company?
I've used them - bought my DW745 portable table saw and stand from then last March. No problems at all.

when you say rip saw do you mean handsaw?
No. I mean a powered rip saw, i.e. one of these:

Makita DHS680 18 volt Rip Saw 001 01.JPG


I haven't seen anyone on site with a hand rip saw (i.e. a hand saw with proper rip pattern teeth) in nearly 40 years.

Also, are you saying the blades need checking a lot and possibly changed as they lose their sharpness?
Cordless tools always have less power to play with than the equivalent-size corded tools (e.g. my cordless rip saw is 600 or so watts - a corded version would probably be 800 to 1000 watts). Partly to overcome this power disadvantage manufacturers therefore fit thinner kerf blades to reduce the power requirements and thereby maximise the battery life of the tools. In other words you get a cordless tool which performs almost as well as a corded one. In the case of the 165mm cordless rip saws like the one above that means saw blades with a kerf of 1.4 to 1.7mm. From experience (about 7 years to date) these thinner blades don't last as long as their thicker kerf bretheren, although they have improved since I started using them. They are particularly prone to shedding teeth if you hit embedded metal. If you insist on runnning blunt blades in a cordless saw you will simply end up flattening the battery very quickly so I tend to always have a spare sharp rip blade (low tooth count) to hand as well as a higher tooth count blade which is reserved exclusively on sheet materials. For floors, old timbers, etc I keep an old blade which has already lost a couple of teeth or is bluntish - after all, there's no point in ruining a good blade cutting out nail-infested rubbish

If the saw is being used heavily, and you don't have a 30 minute charger, you may find you run of battery before the spare has recharged.
Not sure that DW do a 30 minute charger - the 5Ah batteries from my DCN692 take more than an hour on the "fast" charger vs. 50 minutes for a 5Ah Makita battery on their fast charger (the Mak charger does a 3Ah in 22 minutes flat, providing it isn't read hot)
 
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Also, are you saying the blades need checking a lot and possibly changed as they lose their sharpness

You should notice when the blade needs sharpening, as it struggle more to get through the wood. A diamond file should re-sharpen the blade.

Not sure where you are, but the FFX tool show is on at Detling showground in kent end of Feb; normally pretty good prices.
 
We had a guy on our project using one of these a few months back to cut roofing insulation battening as well as some 3x2 CLS framing. He seemed to do OK with it although he was using the bigger 5Ah batteries and he did say the saws were sensitive to blade sharpness (they use extremely thin sppecial blades in the same way that cordless rop saws do). I didn't seem to bog down particularly on that sort of gear.

It may be worth stating that I've framed out entire floors of buildings in 3 x 2 and 4 x 2 softwood using just a speed square and a Makita 18 volt cordless (brushless) rip saw - and the same applies, namely your blades must be sharp, they must be the ultra thin ones made for cordless saws (and BTW the DW ones run rings round Makita, Dart and Trend products) and you need one or possibly two 5Ah batteries to run for a day on a fresh 24t blade. Did similar work in the past with the brushed version of the saw and that was deffo 3 x 3Ah or more in a long day. Of course if you are using other tools on the same battery system it's less of a push

What spare blade would you recommend and anything else like a vacuum connector etc?
 
I'd start by trying the DW blade supplied with the saw and if it's good getting another of the same. If it isn't suitable then cast about until you find something that works for you. The blades required for a portable rip saw are a bit different to those needed for a mitre saw (attack angle, tooth geometry, etc) so just quoting the blades on my cordless rip at you probably won't work, although the DW own brand ultra thin blades i've had to date have been really good (and I'm a Makita user)

On the vacuum issue mybe DW will do an OEM adaptor for this saw, but in some ways woudn't that defeat the object of having a cordless chop saw (assuming that you have a corded vacuum). A quick Google just came up with the part no. N126162 for their dust bag although if it's as good as other dust bags on chop saws it won't be brilliant (why are mitre saws so ruddy dirty?)
 
Links in this post may contain affiliate links for which DIYnot may be compensated.
We had a guy on our project using one of these a few months back to cut roofing insulation battening as well as some 3x2 CLS framing. He seemed to do OK with it although he was using the bigger 5Ah batteries and he did say the saws were sensitive to blade sharpness (they use extremely thin sppecial blades in the same way that cordless rop saws do). I didn't seem to bog down particularly on that sort of gear.

It may be worth stating that I've framed out entire floors of buildings in 3 x 2 and 4 x 2 softwood using just a speed square and a Makita 18 volt cordless (brushless) rip saw - and the same applies, namely your blades must be sharp, they must be the ultra thin ones made for cordless saws (and BTW the DW ones run rings round Makita, Dart and Trend products) and you need one or possibly two 5Ah batteries to run for a day on a fresh 24t blade. Did similar work in the past with the brushed version of the saw and that was deffo 3 x 3Ah or more in a long day. Of course if you are using other tools on the same battery system it's less of a push



are you saying you can do everything you need to do with mitre saw with a rip saw (isn't this the same as a circular saw)?
So it's not worth buying this Dewalt mitre saw one as I have a circular saw?

Also, if you get a mitre saw is it best to get the bench thing that goes with it or just mount it on a workmate or table?
 
Just sold my old DW708 type 3 after years of trouble free service, already ordered a DCS777 54v flexvolt in its place, I have no worries this will as good as the 708 bar the cross cut width.

Also have the DE7023 mitre saw stand, you can work a mitre saw off a table or bench but this is so much sturdier and has supports for longer length timbers, remember to buy the DE7025 mounting brackets as well, they don't come with the saw stand
 

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