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Deleted member 174758
No. What I'm saying is that if you are just cutting studwork, battening, joists, rafters, etc then you CAN do that with a portable power (rip) saw and a speed square and you don't really need a mitre saw. In fact for some of the places I work lugging a mitre saw up into the "gods" (roof areas) would be a complete and utter nightmare on scaffolding, etc (some of the stuff I've worked on recently are 50 to 70ft above ground level - a long way to cart a chop saw, stand and vacuum up and down every day for several weeks!). On the other hand resizing door casings, cutting skirtings and architraves, cutting beadings is where a mitre saw really pays for itself and in the main I'd almost always use one for those tasksare you saying you can do everything you need to do with mitre saw with a rip saw (isn't this the same as a circular saw)?
It's dangerous (at least on site) to allow people to use mitre saws on the floor, not to mention hard on the joints! My old gaffer used to remark that, "only animals and floorers scrabble around on the floor - carpenters make their own saw horses (trestles) and stand-up like men!". Maybe a bit OTT, but you are definitely safer either making or buying a stand for a mitre saw, and probably making up a couple of matching support trestles from offcuts (if you are cutting long stuff - unless your stand has long enough supports) than not. A Workmate can be a stand, providing that the saw is securely fixed to it (never use a mitre saw which isn't fixed to something substantial - if it gets knocked off it could be expensive, very expensive), although personally I find them a bit on the low side - they tend to give folk back ache quite quickly unless they are of diminutive stature.Also, if you get a mitre saw is it best to get the bench thing that goes with it or just mount it on a workmate or table?
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