What calculation do you use SOFTUS to work out the pressure from the tank,, I gace an approximate but I will check it properly tomorrow.
thanks
thanks
DIAGRAM FOR PLUMBING IN A THERMOSTATIC MIXER GRAVITY FED
- Thread starter beermontypython
- Start date
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Hello again my friend.
Reading the installation instructions for my mixer I think I will be ok fpr pressure. It say's
Cold Water 0.1 to 1 Bar ( 1 to 10 mtr head)
Hot Water 0.1 to 1 Bar ( 1 to 10mtr head)
max ratio of hot-cold pressure 1:5 / 5:1.
The actual distance between the shower head and the bottom of my cold water tank in the loft is 2 mtr.
Reading the installation instructions for my mixer I think I will be ok fpr pressure. It say's
Cold Water 0.1 to 1 Bar ( 1 to 10 mtr head)
Hot Water 0.1 to 1 Bar ( 1 to 10mtr head)
max ratio of hot-cold pressure 1:5 / 5:1.
The actual distance between the shower head and the bottom of my cold water tank in the loft is 2 mtr.
This is probably my final posting on this subject Softus.
The galvanised water tank in the loft has been in situ since 1964. It seems very solid and I see no reason to change it. I am just a little confused that the overflow is 22m copper. It enters the tank at the side but then on the inside there is an elbow and it goes down into the water to about 3 inches off the bottom. the length of 22m coming out of the tank is about 4mtrs long and rather than buy a new length I was going to replace the overflow with plastic. The one thing I cant understand is I would have expected the overflow end inside the tank to be about 2/3 inches above the normal level of the water so that in the event of a faulty float the water would run out of the overflow. How does that work when the overflow pipe goes almost to the bottom of the tank??
Thanks
The galvanised water tank in the loft has been in situ since 1964. It seems very solid and I see no reason to change it. I am just a little confused that the overflow is 22m copper. It enters the tank at the side but then on the inside there is an elbow and it goes down into the water to about 3 inches off the bottom. the length of 22m coming out of the tank is about 4mtrs long and rather than buy a new length I was going to replace the overflow with plastic. The one thing I cant understand is I would have expected the overflow end inside the tank to be about 2/3 inches above the normal level of the water so that in the event of a faulty float the water would run out of the overflow. How does that work when the overflow pipe goes almost to the bottom of the tank??
Thanks
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when the water reaches the top it will flow out the overflow but because your overflow is near the bottom of tank when the overflow works siphonage will cause the tank to nearly empty.
Thank you so much for the very fast reply. I understand, so it should be fine for me just leave the inside as it is and cut off the pipe going outside and connect a new piece of overflow pipe to the existing, or would you suggest taking it all out and replacing it with plastic and leaving the new overflow outlet at the top about 2/3" above normal water level.
cheers
cheers
i would get a new tank myself
which comes with lid, insulation,
then fit new plastic overflow
and now new tanks have to have a bylaw 30 kit which is the over flow connector in the tank.
which comes with lid, insulation,
then fit new plastic overflow
and now new tanks have to have a bylaw 30 kit which is the over flow connector in the tank.
I here what you are saying , it does make sense, would I still be able to connect the outlet to the bottowm of the tank as it is now, I realise nowadays they outlet is usually at the side, but this would mean I would have to re-route the outlet.
better on the side than bottom because it don't draw all the muck in and if you install a shower the cylinder feed should be the highest in the tank.
so your hot water would run out first.
so your hot water would run out first.
I think that makes sense to me, when you say the highest in the tank, as there is only one outlet at the moment, do you mean when I install the cold outlet for the mixer the main outlet should be slightly higher than the mixer outlet..
It's turning out to be a little bit more involved than I thought and now I need to sort out what size water tank I will need to replace the existing one. the galvanized one is about 30" square. I called into a plumbers merchants today to have a look at the Hepo connectors suggested in an earlier posting but the only ones they had were speedfit which were easily dissembled if need be. Obviously having to re-route the bottom outlet to the side will involve a couple of bends would that be ok or is it likely to affect the pressure at the valve.
I realise you must have lots of other people to deal with and I apologize for taking you valuable time up
It's turning out to be a little bit more involved than I thought and now I need to sort out what size water tank I will need to replace the existing one. the galvanized one is about 30" square. I called into a plumbers merchants today to have a look at the Hepo connectors suggested in an earlier posting but the only ones they had were speedfit which were easily dissembled if need be. Obviously having to re-route the bottom outlet to the side will involve a couple of bends would that be ok or is it likely to affect the pressure at the valve.
I realise you must have lots of other people to deal with and I apologize for taking you valuable time up
your tank connector for example is shower feed say 30mm from base
your cylinder feed is 50mm
so then if you run the tank low you cylinder runs dry first so your shower gos cold is you pipe it the other way your shower runs dry so then you burn.
seen so many diy showers plumbed wrong.
as for your cws tank if you supplying shower as well as cylinder must be a min of 230 litres.
tank connectors just use these.
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat...HZOCFFI?productId=17810&imageNo=null&ts=86441
your cylinder feed is 50mm
so then if you run the tank low you cylinder runs dry first so your shower gos cold is you pipe it the other way your shower runs dry so then you burn.
seen so many diy showers plumbed wrong.
as for your cws tank if you supplying shower as well as cylinder must be a min of 230 litres.
tank connectors just use these.
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat...HZOCFFI?productId=17810&imageNo=null&ts=86441
GTodd evening gents.
Before I start installing the new water tank and mixer could I just ask one final question please.. Is it beneficial to use 22m cold water from the tank down to the mixer and the reduce to 15mm or is there no benefit. I just wondered if the run of 22m might provide a little more pressure.
Thanks
Before I start installing the new water tank and mixer could I just ask one final question please.. Is it beneficial to use 22m cold water from the tank down to the mixer and the reduce to 15mm or is there no benefit. I just wondered if the run of 22m might provide a little more pressure.
Thanks
Use 22m. It might make little difference but you have very little head to play with.
You might consider raising the cstern in the loft, on a wood platform. If you can get an extra metre it makes a noticeable difference. You can get "coffin" style cisterns which will go up in the apex of the loft.
You might consider raising the cstern in the loft, on a wood platform. If you can get an extra metre it makes a noticeable difference. You can get "coffin" style cisterns which will go up in the apex of the loft.
Thanks ChrisR.. The prob I have is that I am in a bungalow and the tank is aleady on a wooden platform with the tank butting up against the roof joists so theres not much opportunity to put it higher, although I could perhaps move the platform a little more to the centre of the apex which would give about 2 feet higher. but it wouldn't then be directly above the water cylinder or the mixer
Hello again my friend,, well I realise it is a bit late posting a reply to this but I have been in hospital for an operation and have been recovering.
I wonder if you can advise me on what you may think is a stupid question but here goes.
On the picture I posted showing the hot water cylinder which I need to tee off..the length of pipe coming out of the cylinder is so short and fixed to the cylinder at one end and then teed off again at the other end, one to vent I think the other is the supply to taps.
To install a tee to supply my mixer valve I need to cut through this pipe but both ends are fixed there is going to be no movement on the pipe to allow me to connect the tee, I know I will have to cut a bit off to allow for the tee but how do I finish up being able to push both ends of the pipe into the new tee if I haven't any movement.
Thanks
I wonder if you can advise me on what you may think is a stupid question but here goes.
On the picture I posted showing the hot water cylinder which I need to tee off..the length of pipe coming out of the cylinder is so short and fixed to the cylinder at one end and then teed off again at the other end, one to vent I think the other is the supply to taps.
To install a tee to supply my mixer valve I need to cut through this pipe but both ends are fixed there is going to be no movement on the pipe to allow me to connect the tee, I know I will have to cut a bit off to allow for the tee but how do I finish up being able to push both ends of the pipe into the new tee if I haven't any movement.
Thanks
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