Dilemma about a central heating boiler

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Hello experts.

In Sept. 2012, we had our first central heating gas boiler installed, with three radiators. It is an EcoTec Plus 824. Since it was still September when we first used it, the domestic hot water temperature seemed OK, and actually, in the winter that followed (and the next), I have no memory of it having been unsatisfactory. I think that, if the bath water had not been warm enough, my wife would have complained (I always use the electric shower). However, at 83, I find it very difficult to remember exactly how I/we did find the DHW temperature at first. When the engineer installed the boiler and radiators, he said that, because not much would be demanded of the boiler (there being only three rads), he had “reduced its capacity”. I had no idea what he did, of course, but accepted that he knew what he was doing and that everything would be alright (of course, it may have been, since the engineer was Vaillant trained and since he was GasSafe registered). Initially, I had asked this man to install an ET Plus 838, but he made it very clear that this would not be necessary. His words about the 824, which he persuaded me to accept, were “It will murder the job”. So, I gave in and accepted his advice about the 824 having plenty of power for our needs.

During the winter that has just gone, however, my wife has complained constantly about the domestic hot water, and I also found that, during really cold spells, it was only just warm. I raised the setting to its maximum (60° C.), but it made hardly any difference — the water was simply nowhere near what one might expect, for general use.

Afterwards (whatever the reason for this may have been), I found it difficult to contact this tradesman (perhaps, on the few occasions when I rang him, he was always busy and could not use his mobile phone), so today, I asked someone to look at the boiler, with a view to correcting the poor DHW supply. This man has serviced the boiler since its installation, but he is not the one that installed it — he is a different firm. Again, this man has a reputable company and is fully trained.

He told me that the only way to make the DHW hotter would be to restrict the flow of water to the boiler. (Whether this will affect the central heating in any way, I don’t know, but I trust the man.) So today, following this restriction being applied, the DHW was noticably warmer, with just a bit of a sting in it. (Bear in mind that the weather is becoming warmer now, and that this will make a difference.) However, the water is nowhere near to being so hot that one might be tempted to cool it a bit, by adding cold water. Now, after this long preamble, here is where my questions arise.

When I phoned this last firm, and described the problem we were having, the member of staff on the phone said that the EcoTec Plus 824 ought to be able to supply DHW “not only to your house (a smallish semi) but also to your neighbour.” Yet, a man from the same firm — the one that actually adjusted the water flow to the boiler, gave no such indication. He said that he did not think that the current boiler was up to the job, and said that an EcoTec Plus 832 or 838 would serve us better.

Now, I don’t know what to think, seeing that two men from the same firm have said different things about our boiler. If I were to ask another firm to come and see if they can make the DHW warmer, they may well say that there is nothing more to be done (and they would charge me for looking at it). Yet, if I accept what the second man said (the engineer that visited, and did the job), it would involve spending well over a thousand pounds on a more powerful boiler, when, for aught I know, this may not be necessary at all. The trouble is, if you don’t know, you don’t know. There is another saying: When doctors disagree, who is one to believe?

If anyone can respond in a meaningful and helpful way, I should be very grateful. Thanks in anticipation!
A.W.

PS: I'm sorry to have been so long-winded, but I had to give all of the background to the problem.
 
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The ecoTEC 824 will give you 9.5 litres per minute flow rate at 35 degrees temperature rise, or 8 litres per minute at 42 degrees temperature rise. Thus, if you're drawing 9.5l/min and your incoming main is at 10 degrees, you'll only get water out of the tap at 45 degrees. Your boiler is the lowest power combi available, so I'm afraid the performance isn't ever going to be spectacular. Did any of the engineers who came round to your property do a test to determine whether the boiler was performing to specification? The test is simple (and something you could actually do yourself if you went out and bought the kit). First, measure the incoming mains temperature, then use a flow cup to set the flow rate of the hot water to 9.5L/min. Now test the water again and see whether the temperature has risen by the expected 35 degrees. If it has, the boiler is operating correctly. If the rise is less, the boiler has a problem and this needs investigating.
 
Sorry Andrew, I forgot to answer your question. The engineer did do a flow test, and seemed satisfied. I rang him later, to ask him to give me a price for a more powerful boiler, just in case. I expressed my concern about the expense, and he said that there was one more thing that he could do. This was to test the diverter valve (or something like that). He said it would be only a five-minute job to check it. I wonder why he did not do this as a matter of course, before reducing the flow, if it is such a quick and simple job! Anyway, he said he will come on Monday (tomorrow), so I am keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks for your reply.
 
don't know why you need a 32 or 38 kw boiler when you have 3 or 4 rads :eek: how many bathrooms do you have ? it might help if you give us the temp of your hot water ?
if its the right temp rise its working to spec tbh
 
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don't know why you need a 32 or 38 kw boiler when you have 3 or 4 rads :eek: how many bathrooms do you have ? it might help if you give us the temp of your hot water ?
if its the right temp rise its working to spec tbh

There is only one bathroom. As far as fitting a more powerful boiler, the heating engineer seemed to be quite happy with the idea (well, he would, wouldn't he?). However, it was he that first mentioned another boiler, not me. He said that it would solve the problem (which was that, in the cold of last winter, water from the hot tap was only just warm). He made this remark before he reduced the flow, and it was because he favoured the idea of a bigger boiler, that I rang him for a price. The implication of his remarks, at first, was that the present boiler is not powerful enough — for DHW, at any rate — the CH is fine, even in winter. I don't know what the temperature from the hot tap is now (i.e. since the engineer reduced the flow-rate), but the flow is certainly not satisfactory. Also, I would bet that if the very cold weather came again (as it probably will, next winter), the water would still not be hot enough. The temperature is just about satisfactory now, only because the weather has become warmer.

If it were possible to obtain really hot DHW, with a reasonable flow rate from the tap, it would be a great relief. Well, on Monday, I shall find out whether it can be improved by tinkering with the diverter. As I remarked earlier, I can't understand why he is doing this as an afterthought, seeing that he said it is only a five-minute job. Surely, this ought to have been the first thing he did.
 
so have you actually done what muggles has advised to do ?
does your heating pipes under boiler get hot when hot water only is demanded from boiler ??
does your hot water go hot then cold and so on ?
whats the colour of your ch system water ?
by the sounds of it your installer is having you on with regards to getting a bigger boiler you don't need a bigger boiler , you need to do some work to help diagnose your boiler . your boiler maybe still under warranty anyway ?
 
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Think of your combi boiler just like your electric shower... It heats mains water instantly but using gas rather than electricity.
The power output of the boiler determines the max temp it can heat the water, per minute, as it flows through the plate heat exchanger.
If your boiler is not performing to spec, then either the diverter valve is allowing primary flow to pass around the CH circuit or the plate heat exchanger (which heats your HW indirectly via heat exhange from the primary circuit) is blocked/scaled/dirty and needs cleaning.
If it is delivering HW at the specified temp and flow rate, and this is still not good enough, then the boiler is underpowered OR you are getting cross over from cold to hot somehow, elsewhere on your HW supplies at the outlets!
What is the HW like at ALL your draw offs? The same or different?
 
so have you actually done what muggles has advised to do ?????
does your heating pipes under boiler get hot when hot water only is demanded from boiler ??
does your hot water go hot then cold and so on ?
whats the colour of your ch system water ?
by the sounds of it your installer is having you on with regards to getting a bigger boiler you don't need a bigger boiler , you need to do some work to help diagnose your boiler . your boiler maybe still under warranty anyway ?

Chap is 83 AGAS!
Sounds like he is in the hands of whoever he calls round!
 
so have you actually done what muggles has advised to do ?????
does your heating pipes under boiler get hot when hot water only is demanded from boiler ??
does your hot water go hot then cold and so on ?
whats the colour of your ch system water ?
by the sounds of it your installer is having you on with regards to getting a bigger boiler you don't need a bigger boiler , you need to do some work to help diagnose your boiler . your boiler maybe still under warranty anyway ?

Agas: I haven't ordered a new boiler, if that's what you mean. After all, he is coming on Monday to look at the diverter, so I have to give this a chance. I ran the hot tap after reading your message, and looked at the pipes that come out underneath the boiler. There are six of these (copper ones), and three of them felt warm (after all, the water running from the tap was not mad-hot. It had a bit of a sting, but not much), whereas the rest are stone-cold. I don't know which ones do what, of course — in this regard, I'm like a babe in arms! The colour of the CH water is clear (there is a magnetic filter on the system, underneath the boiler).

Before the engineer called and reduced the flow-rate, when the temperature from the hot tap was really poor when the hot tap was turned on, it would run cold for a while (as the "old" water left in the pipe was cleared, I suppose). Then suddenly, it would come quite hot, but only for about three seconds. Then it settled down to its regular temperature, which was only — "quite warm", is how I would describe it. Not hot.
I suppose that the boiler is still under warranty, even though we did not have it serviced in any way for two years — we thought that the condition of having it serviced religiously, every year, for five years, in order to benefit from the warranty, was a con. Nevertheless, we kept on receiving letters from Vaillant, saying that, if we would have it serviced, it would be in warranty. So, in the third year (when there might have been some risk of it having trouble), we had it serviced. The man only read meters and so on — he did not have the cover off. He said that only after or during the fifth year of use was this necessary. However, we chose our own engineer to do this, and had no contract with Vaillant to do it. Thanks for your interest.
A.W.
 
Think of your combi boiler just like your electric shower... It heats mains water instantly but using gas rather than electricity.
The power output of the boiler determines the max temp it can heat the water, per minute, as it flows through the plate heat exchanger.
If your boiler is not performing to spec, then either the diverter valve is allowing primary flow to pass around the CH circuit or the plate heat exchanger (which heats your HW indirectly via heat exhange from the primary circuit) is blocked/scaled/dirty and needs cleaning.
If it is delivering HW at the specified temp and flow rate, and this is still not good enough, then the boiler is underpowered OR you are getting cross over from cold to hot somehow, elsewhere on your HW supplies at the outlets!
What is the HW like at ALL your draw offs? The same or different?

Dilalio: Thanks for your explanations. There are only three draw-off points for hot water. The are the bath and the washbasin, in the bathroom (no doubt, these can be considered to be the same), and there is the hot tap in the kitchen. They all behave the same.

Hey, though I am 83, I ain't stoopud!
 
Think of your combi boiler just like your electric shower... It heats mains water instantly but using gas rather than electricity.
The power output of the boiler determines the max temp it can heat the water, per minute, as it flows through the plate heat exchanger.
If your boiler is not performing to spec, then either the diverter valve is allowing primary flow to pass around the CH circuit or the plate heat exchanger (which heats your HW indirectly via heat exhange from the primary circuit) is blocked/scaled/dirty and needs cleaning.
If it is delivering HW at the specified temp and flow rate, and this is still not good enough, then the boiler is underpowered OR you are getting cross over from cold to hot somehow, elsewhere on your HW supplies at the outlets!
What is the HW like at ALL your draw offs? The same or different?

Dilalio: Thanks for your explanations. There are only three draw-off points for hot water. The are the bath and the washbasin, in the bathroom (no doubt, these can be considered to be the same), and there is the hot tap in the kitchen. They all behave the same.

Hey, though I am 83, I ain't stoopud!

Lol! I never said you woz stoopid (y)
I just knew that us regular tradesmen on here would have you pipewrangling whilst standing on your head, like we do, in no time!!
Now you are "informed" about how it works... you can get the engineer, who's coming round, to stand on his head, instead of you (y)
 
Lol! I never said you woz stoopid (y)
I just knew that us regular tradesmen on here would have you pipewrangling whilst standing on your head, like we do, in no time!!
Now you are "informed" about how it works... you can get the engineer, who's coming round, to stand on his head, instead of you (y)[/QUOTE]

Well, these exchanges have all been very useful. Thanks, to all correspondents.
 
I expect your heating is off now, by the room thermostat. Make sure that at least one of your radiators is turned on at its knobs, and feel it to be sure it is cold. Then start running a hot bath. Do any of the radiators start to get warm? If so, it will indicate that some of the heat that should be going to your hot tap water, is escaping to warm the radiators. Not an unusual fault.
 
There are six of these (copper ones), and three of them felt warm (after all, the water running from the tap was not mad-hot. It had a bit of a sting, but not much), whereas the rest are stone-cold.


you need to make sure your heating pipes are cold with stat turned down first before the touch test ( the two outer pipes under the boiler 22mm pipes ) or it could mis lead you .
 

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