Diplomat Dishwasher ADP8322

[ferengi]

Bummer, I'm going to have to wait until tomorrow before I can test the wash motor; unfortunately, I don't have any spades small enough to fit! But I can confirm that there are definitely no other wired connections to the motor; just the two. The resistance across them is 31 ohms

Here's a complete set of views round it...

Not even an earth!

Btw is this the capacitor you've mentioned?

And finally, how do you get access to the rubber non-return flap? From the inside of the sump?

So many questions...sorry!

 

[zipper]

Thanks for the detailed photos...now that is really unusual
Firstly; the last picture in the series is a capacitor of sorts but it has nothing to do with the motor. It is the mains interference suppressor, these are fitted on many domestic appliances.
Secondly; I must say the detailed photos of the wash motor surprise me but now we may have an answer that explains your wash problem. Your wash motor appears to be nothing more than cheap (albeit wee bit larger) Askoll type drain pump. According to the service documentation this is the baby that is supposed to be fitted to your model http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=653 (a conventional 2 winding single phase motor with a 4uf capacitor). After a little digging it appears some models had these types of wash motor instead of a conventional one. However at least now we have a reason to suspect the integrity of the wash motor. I can't imagine this type having anywhere near the life span of a conventional wash motor. As I said earlier & put some water in the machine & hotwire it, I imagine this will reveal the root cause of your wash problems. Strange....

 

[zipper]

Apparently the impellors on these large (cheap & nasty) Askoll wash motors have a reputation of becoming detached from the rotor shaft.
I am pretty certain your problem lies here. But another thing worth checking is the double plastic feed pipes that rise from the bottom of the machine up to the spray arms. Check it hasn't popped out of the base plate. I have seen this issue on several whirlpool machines & it results in a huge pressure loss, but it is very easy to fix.
If you find out the wash motor is bad shop around for a replacement, there are some cheaper alternatives around. The part number to look for is 481236158434.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/sis.html?_kw=whirlpool+dishwasher+circulation+pump+481236158434+askoll

 

[zipper]

Oh, sorry...I forgot to mention the location of the non-return flap. I don't think this is connected to your particular problem but if you already have the thing apart it might be worth taking a peek at it. It can't be accessed from the sump on your particular model. From the underneath (with the base plate off) look just to the left of where the drain pump attaches to the sump, there should be a smaller pipe branching off to the left. The non-return flap sits in the end of that (you will have to disconnect the flexible hose that fits onto the pipe to get at flap). It is only a flimsy piece of rubber.

 

[ferengi]

Unfortunately, I didn't read your last two posts until after putting it all back together so I haven't checked the two plastic pipes but I did have the rubber pipe of, if you mean the one below...

However, I didn't find any rubber flap! Just a plastic spigt (junction pipe) that the hose slipped over. When I gently 'probed' the spigot I didn't encounter any resistance until I got about 40mm in and then it was solid. Couldn't eyeball the far end of the spigot either, unfortunately.

As for the wash motor, I can say the impellor is not detached. I hot-wired it as you suggested and it worked, pumped audibly, sprayarms sprayed, the whole nine yards. Woo-hoo! So I cut of the burnt plug and replaced with spades.

Put it all back together expectantly and still won't wash. Starts, pumps out dregs, takes in water, heats it, does nothing. No error. Wash pumps does not pump, arms do not spin.

Why would there be no 'juice' getting to the motor? And how do I test that?

Cheers

D

 

[zipper]

The short on the terminals could have damaged components on the pcb, hence no voltage down at the motor. Let me dig around some. In the meantime inspect the pcb for any signs of damage/scorching. If possible trace the motor wiring back to the board (the motor control relay should be marked RE3 on the board). Look carefully at the plug connections as well.

 

[Leccy758]

If I re-call correctly these pumps do not have a capacitor (they are enlarged versions of the drain pump).

It is quite common for them to leak from the seal or as I am seeing more of, the pumps to simply fall apart (armature section comes out of the housing) and simply stop running or rattle and pump very weakly.

Burning on the terminals could have been due to poor connections or excessive current draw (impellor jammed so motor draws more current to try and run), also possible to have started when the machine base got wet (condensation or water on the terminals or windings).

 

[ferengi]

Zipper

Where would I find the PCB on this baby? Is it inside the door? The wiring loom seems to head in there...but can't figure out how to get in to it!

Btw, the arms were spinning when I hot-wired the motor so is it safe to assume there's not a problem with the two plastic pipes from the base to the arms (do you mean the ones running up the inside of the washer?)

Leccy758

The motor does seem fine (no apparent leaking) but there's definite evidence of moisture so could have started with the 'waste backup' incident.

Thanks, folks, for your input; we'll get there!

 

[zipper]

Looks like the motor is good & there is no pressure loss because the "double barrel" feed pipe has popped out. That's two possible problems out the way at least.
The pcb is in the right hand side of the front console directly below the button panel. You can try & remove just the screws where the panel is located but you will probably having to take off door fascia at least. I'm not sure if you need to remove the inner door plate behind the fascia. With a little trial & error all will reveal itself.

 

[zipper]

It might be clutching at straws but after checking the pcb for damage/bad plug contacts also check the wiring harness at the pivot point of the door. Sometimes cables get chaffed or broken there. You could also try pulling off the wash motor feed plug at the pcb & check for continuity between the plug & cable spades at the motor end. If you have continuity then the problem is on the board. It could be a blown component or a damaged motor relay.

 

[ferengi]

I'll check that tonight and let you know what I find. Hopefully, something easily fixed!!

D