DIY friendly architrave and skirting

[Deleted member 174758]

I think so, yes. Even if it doesn't it is always possible to finish the last little piece of the cut with a fine tooth (hand) saw

 

[Jupiter01]

Will the saw cut pierce through the face of the skirting and any manual cut be required on the back end of the skirting? I’m concerned that if the saw cuts through some of the face but not all, a hand saw cut will be very obviously different. If it’s beyond the face that I need to use the hand saw, I suppose it doesn’t matter as it will be hidden and I read that undercutting the skirting is helpful anyway - to help with the corner fittings.

Also by raising this skirting off the bed of the saw, am I still going to be able to push the skirting against the fence of the saw to get a true cut?

Sorry for the incessant questions. I am trying to determine which size skirting I should go for.

 

[Jupiter01]

One further question please: rather than wooden strips that are treated and around 1cm, can I put some appropriately levelled bonding intervals and then use this as a point to pop in some countersunk screws?
This would allow me to to get the correct level whereas with the timber strips, I will still need to pack in places to get it flush. The strips will also work out more expensive as I have two bedrooms to do.

Thanks for your advice

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Will the saw cut pierce through the face of the skirting and any manual cut be required on the back end of the skirting?

On a mitre saw you normally cut face upwards. Any minor additional cuts should be made from the face as well

I’m concerned that if the saw cuts through some of the face but not all, a hand saw cut will be very obviously different.

If needs be finish the mitred edge using either a sharp block plane or wrap some P100 (or thereabouts) sandpaper tightly around a square edged piece of MDF or skirting (a small offcut with a square edge) and finish with that - downwards strokes from the face towards the back of the skirting ONLY as going the other way might break out the face at the edge

Also by raising this skirting off the bed of the saw, am I still going to be able to push the skirting against the fence of the saw to get a true cut?

If you use a piece of flat material with a square edge (such as a piece of MDF or ann offcut of skirting) as long as the bed of the saw and at least as wide as the skirting, and you push this hard against the fence and secure it to the bed (screws or double sided carpet tape) and if you also support the skirting outboard of the saw (which for safety's sake you should do in any case) then the skirting should restcatop the "riser" piece and you should be able to push it iagainst the fence of the saw

Fundamentally with a 10in/250mm skirting it is generally possible to get q2 or more millimetres of crosscut capacity by lufting the msterial slightly of top of a packing piece

 

[Deleted member 174758]

One further question please: rather than wooden strips that are treated and around 1cm, can I put some appropriately levelled bonding intervals and then use this as a point to pop in some countersunk screws?

Bonding (i presume you mean grip adhesive) is designed to hold the skirting on its' own. It won't actually hold screws, or for that matter nails. Just use bigger gobs of Gripfill (or for that matter foam) but you will need to find some way to hold your skirting upright and against the wall whilst the Gripfill/foam goes off

 

[Jupiter01]

Bonding (i presume you mean grip adhesive)

Sorry, I was referring to bonding coat. I could mix this up and level against the wall at specified intervals as a point to fix the skirting. Is that wise?

 

[Jupiter01]

My saw cut through the 144mm skirting once I put something underneath it t raise the level. Excellent tip!
I attempted my first coped corner and turned into a dogs dinner...

I thought I did well with the coping part:

But tried to do the straight cut on the face using my coping saw. Rookie!

Is there anyway I can use my Makita MLS 100 to do this straight cut without it interfering with the coped part? ordinarily, you'd stand the skirting upright bit I am unable to do this with the tall skirting.

I'd appreciate your advice as I plan to improve this with a further attempt:

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Start by making a 45° mitre cut across the piece to be scribed with your mitre saw

Enhance the visibility of the edge by rubbing the side of a pencil lead along the angle where the mitre face and the main face intersect. This will make your cut line far more obvious

Using a jig saw or a hand saw, saw away the waste at the bottom of the skirting (the straight bit). You need to angle the saw to give you about 5° of relief (back) angle. You will need to do this for the entire joint, including the bit at the top. This back relief allows you to accommodate out of square corners. Cut from front face towards the back to give a nice sharp edge

Lay the material flat and overhanging the support (bench, table, etc) with the face uppermost.

Set up your coping saw so that the teeth point towards the handle (like a fret saw), not away from it (like a hand saw). This means that you saw by cutting towards the handle (a pull cut). Doing this means the blade is in tension whilst cutting and therefore straighter during the cut than trying to saw the other way, like a normal hand saw

Saw the last piece out (where the Torus moulding is) using the coping saw from below (i.e. the handle is at the back of the material) making a pull cut. Remember that except at the very top of the cut you need to add about 5° back relief angle. The top needs to be more or less square as it will be visible

If needs be wrap some sandpaper around a piece of dowel or the like to clean-up the back of the Torus "bulge". Only sand in a downwards direction (i.e. from face to back) to avoid break out of a fragile edge