DIY Router Table

Thanks. I was just thinking the fence on rails with the clamped wood to it moving it over the cutter. I was thinking is the safest option and most accurate for me. Adjusting it for each cut and clamping it each time so it doesn't move.

I hope this makes sense.

Thanks

James
 
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if you have chunky timber thats say 6ft and fairly heavy you take the router to the work as its easier to control the router
even with fully supported timber on a table any deviations will cause the timber to lift and twist
where as a router will only be effected by the 6-10" off the base and fence
in other words a timber that has a slight bow over its length may lift off the cutter say 3-5mm on a 2ft table but on the base off router only 1mm
and freehand with a jig and guide bush will still give you a dead accurate edge as prescribed by the jig it just means random passes to fully remove all required material
for example you need to remove a 21mm wide slot you would use a say 8mm cutter in 3or4 passes one down one edge and back up the other and freehand up the middle dependant on depth
in general any passes should remove half the shank width per cut
 
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Thanks. This is only going to be small as it's for a gerbil. So thin wood with say a 4mm groove in it. I have attached a picture of what I am looking at doing so it gives a better idea.

I would still like to make the rails for the fence to ensure the fence is straight when it has been moved.

Thanks

James
 

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much easier to achieve by sticking timber on like lolly sticks flat where you want the slots
not safe to use short timbers on a router table also the distance between cutter and fence will be to much
 
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A pair of auto-adjust hold down clamps come in handy with router tables. Get some decently ply which can be made up to follow the square edge of your table and use the hold down clamps to fix the work piece to your more substantial piece of ply. A very basic sled in effect.
 

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Thanks. I was just thinking the fence on rails with the clamped wood to it moving it over the cutter. I was thinking is the safest option and most accurate for me. Adjusting it for each cut and clamping it each time so it doesn't move.

I hope this makes sense.

Thanks

James

I've attached a photo of how I made my fence. It's just a free hand routed slot to accept an M8 bolt. It's a domes head coach bolt with a square shoulder to it will lock against the cheeks of the slot when tightening down the star knobs.
 

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