Do I need to keep heating drain valve through airbrick?

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You're obviously not in agreement with the responses - though at the end of the day it's totally your choice - it's your house and it's not a legal requirement to have drain off points.

It has been explained that this is standard practice when it comes to CH setting out- with some new builds they have concrete slabs foundations, so it's not possible to have any pipework under the floor therefore no external drain off's. In other builds with floating floors then this is still the standard. I drained and flushed a CH system not 2 weeks ago that had 2 drain offs out of an airbrick. Property is a new build, only 4 years old

And putting this drain under a door frame, exactly where a person might want a step is just a lack of thought.
I would more comment on the airbrick being below a door rather than a drain off that is run through it. May also find the airbrick was there before the door was, so maybe the door shouldn't have been placed above an airbrick or the airbrick moved when the door was put in, maybe that was the original lack of though. When the door was created why wasn't there a step created then too, maybe that wasn't in the design or purpose?
How would I ever access it if it's under the floor?
A marked removeable floor board.

Anyway, it really is up to you - knock yourself out.
 
It has been explained that this is standard practice when it comes to CH setting out- with some new builds they have concrete slabs foundations, so it's not possible to have any pipework under the floor therefore no external drain off's.

Quite! I have a concrete slab floor throughout, all the pipes to the five radiators, drop down from the ceiling, so every one is fitted with a drain-cock. A full drain down, involves lots of running around with a hose pipe, to each, to release the water to drain. It is not without advantages, in as much as it is much easier to just partial drain down, to first floor level, to replace pumps, and 3-port valves etc.
 
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You're obviously not in agreement with the responses - though at the end of the day it's totally your choice - it's your house and it's not a legal requirement to have drain off points.

It has been explained that this is standard practice when it comes to CH setting out- with some new builds they have concrete slabs foundations, so it's not possible to have any pipework under the floor therefore no external drain off's. In other builds with floating floors then this is still the standard. I drained and flushed a CH system not 2 weeks ago that had 2 drain offs out of an airbrick. Property is a new build, only 4 years old


I would more comment on the airbrick being below a door rather than a drain off that is run through it. May also find the airbrick was there before the door was, so maybe the door shouldn't have been placed above an airbrick or the airbrick moved when the door was put in, maybe that was the original lack of though. When the door was created why wasn't there a step created then too, maybe that wasn't in the design or purpose?

A marked removeable floor board.

Anyway, it really is up to you - knock yourself out.

Yep quite possibly the drain valve was there first. Still shouldnt be in that spot as if the previous homeowners had the french doors installed they should have also had the valve moved. Their 'step' was a couple of loose bricks with a slab on top.

It won't be possible to access an underfloor valve with the floor covering (probably hardwood/engineered wood) down.

I'm just reluctant to have a failure point like that. Also it sits outside in all weathers for years, will probably be siezed when it's actually needed to be used.
 
It does seem that whatever the responses say, you're determined not to see the advantages of having such a drain point, and want to get rid of it. Your choice of course but not much point in asking the question on this forum if you then reject all the answers!
 
I haven't rejected it, I just needed convincing. I'll relocate it to the left side when I eventually get under the subfloor.

I still think an unused draincock sitting outside for years is very likely to just be siezed up when you actually need it though.
 
Also it sits outside in all weathers for years, will probably be siezed when it's actually needed to be used.
Nope - It's brass on brass, wont corrode like that, especially if they are used now and again, hence why they're used outside. Can be out there for years without any trouble, exactly like an outside tap. One I know of has got to be at least 30 years old, just needed a new washer last year.

TBH it's not our job to convince anyone to do anything. Advice and suggestions are offered from the Pro's (and experienced DIY'ers) that give up their time to help and advise the less experienced DIY'ers on this DIY forum, whether that advice if followed or not is up to the individual.

The advice that has been given to this post is correct and the reasons why have also been explained, there really isn't anything else to say, no convincing is ever required. Ultimately the choice is now whether to follow that advice or not.
 
It sort of makes my day when I find an exterior drain cock on a property.

No worrying about black crap all over cream carpets, drain hose catching on untold ornaments and clutter or door to outside blowing open because you can't shut it due to the hose.

Do this job everyday and you'll understand why an exterior drain cock is a blessing that proper plumbers would always include on an install.
 
If you're worried about it being outside, smear it with a thin layer of suitable grease or tape some foam around it.
 
The reason you think none of your friends have them is because most people never know they have them!

But if I ever need to drain a system I always look for an external drain point outside first as that is far quicker and easier.
 
Well I think you should leave it where it is, wrap some tape around it, bury in your concrete step, forget about it and come back here for advice in the future if you ever need to drain your system
 
A separate point - if you're going to cover the existing airbrick with a concrete step, then you really need to fit a new airbrick somewhere close, so as to keep the underfloor ventilation effective. Otherwise you're risking dry rot slowly taking hold.
 

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