Hello,
Do the door casing's go on first and then plaster and then trim's?
Do the door casing's go on first and then plaster and then trim's?
Door casing before or after plastering?
- Thread starter ipjodan
- Start date
Sponsored Links
casing first, then plaster then fix the architraves.
always set the casing 10mm wider than it needs to be, (only at the bottom obviously) and fix it with screws. the plaster will push it in a little and the rest you can adjust to suit the door.
Thanks noseall,
If its a 4 inch in block wall having dot and dab what size casing should i be looking at?
If its a 4 inch in block wall having dot and dab what size casing should i be looking at?
Sponsored Links
Been playing this game over the last two weeks on our project. Quized my drylining / plaster man at length before starting. He was confident that 135mm casings and 12.5mm plasterboard would go (I was very sceptical) "I can wack the boards almost flat to the wall" he said. So I very carefully fitted the casings making sure I had 17mm each side. BIG disappointment when it was drylined. The plasterboard was no where near. So I spent last weekend gluing, pinning and sanding back 25mm X 10mm strips around the casings to give him an edge to plaster to. They like about 3mm for the finishing plaster.
I think you might get away with 145mm casings if your dry liner takes a little more care that mine or you use 9.5mm plasterboard, otherwise be prepared for the same. (Mine are 155mm now!) It will lso depend on whether you have any cabling or pipework close to the casings.
If you have any window cills be careful with those too. Standard window boards are not really wide enough for 100mm Thermalite + plasterboard + plaster. Good luck .... It's a tricky issue.
I think you might get away with 145mm casings if your dry liner takes a little more care that mine or you use 9.5mm plasterboard, otherwise be prepared for the same. (Mine are 155mm now!) It will lso depend on whether you have any cabling or pipework close to the casings.
If you have any window cills be careful with those too. Standard window boards are not really wide enough for 100mm Thermalite + plasterboard + plaster. Good luck .... It's a tricky issue.
ipjodan said:
5 3/4" (145mm) casings are available for dabbed walls, though i would prefer if they were made a touch wider.
mdf pre primed window boards are now available at 12" (300mm) deep
Drylining 
Bond it then you wont have any problems. Get a real plasterer to do it for you the old way..
Ok rant over
Deep breath, OK, i'm ready for the backlash regarding a REAL plasterer
Bond it then you wont have any problems. Get a real plasterer to do it for you the old way..Ok rant over
Deep breath, OK, i'm ready for the backlash regarding a REAL plasterer
That was always the plan for my extension. I hate dry lining ...... 3 tradesmen all told me the same thing. Bonding on thermalite blocks will crack ... they were able to quote horror stories! Decided to play it safe.
I bonded my thermolite 12 months ago.
Not had a problem. I think its the old story, job takes much longer and you need to be a good plasterer to get a nice flat finish ready for the skim.
If they think there will be a problem with bonding, tell them to use Browning then Thats made for high suction. No excuse now to use dry lining
Not had a problem. I think its the old story, job takes much longer and you need to be a good plasterer to get a nice flat finish ready for the skim.
If they think there will be a problem with bonding, tell them to use Browning then
Thats made for high suction. No excuse now to use dry lining
If you ask Thermalite or Celcon or visit any other the houses built with these blocks then you will not see any plaster cracking.
I would be wary of 'tradesmen' who say it cracks. They either can't bond and skim or are in breach of the trades description act for using that title.
If you use browning then its fine - and dampen the wall in warm weather if needed.
I would be wary of 'tradesmen' who say it cracks. They either can't bond and skim or are in breach of the trades description act for using that title.
If you use browning then its fine - and dampen the wall in warm weather if needed.
There is a time and a place for dry lining, Its a little sad that some of these so called plasterers seem to think the time is always.
As woody says, ask them to quote for a spread and skim rather than dry lining. If they are totally against it maybe you should seek another quote.
As woody says, ask them to quote for a spread and skim rather than dry lining. If they are totally against it maybe you should seek another quote.
i'm old school taught. float 'n' set is no problem. we give people a choice. quite often a customer will ask "what's the quickest and cheapest"?
for this question i always answer dot 'n' dab.
for kitchens, where there will be a lot of wall fixing going on, i strongly recommend wet plastering (float 'n' set).
for this question i always answer dot 'n' dab.
for kitchens, where there will be a lot of wall fixing going on, i strongly recommend wet plastering (float 'n' set).
Thanks for all the replies,
Ive not been around for a week or so. FastJedi, hope all is ok at yours now. Ive worked out that 145mm casing should do
Joseph
Ive not been around for a week or so. FastJedi, hope all is ok at yours now. Ive worked out that 145mm casing should do
Joseph
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
