Door casing problem.

[securespark]

Hi guys.

A bit out of my comfort zone, but I'm fitting a door casing into a partition wall.

It is paramount with a 12.5mm layer of plasterboard on one side. Total thickness around 80mm.

So, I've fitted one side of the casing to the upright timber of the wall.

On the inside of the room (the side of the wall that is not clad with the 12.5mm board) the casing is flush with the wall surface.

That means on the other side, the casing is recessed by 12.5mm.

Well, at the top it is.

At the bottom, the casing is nearly flush. So the wall the frame is fixed to is not true, meaning that when it comes to fixing the architrave, I've got an issue.

I don't really want to fix the casing so it's not vertical.

Can any of you chippies help a sparkie (it's not unheard of I'm told! ) with a solution, please?

I'm off out to Lacrosse match now, but if need be I'll try and get some pix up later.

Thanks.

 

[foxhole]

Sounds like the casing is too narrow, should be flush with any finished wall and inset 3mm on any wall to be skimmed.You need larger casing , offer up and scribe around and the plane back to walls.

 

[securespark]

The door:

The top of the door relative to the wall:

The bottom of the door:

My options?

1. Fit new door casing tailored to odd wall.

2. Cut/ plane/ sand piece of wood to fit.

3. Fit casing out of true so gap is consistent.

Thanks.

 

[gregers]

going by the pic's it looks like your going to have problems with the 2nd door aswell,
perhaps you could put in a secondary liner?

either that or install new linings that will fit correctly to the openings.

it you fit a door to a lining thats inwind the door will either open by itself or close.
plus this is the time to do things correctly,if not they will show up and bite you on your arriss when the job is completed.plus it will bug you no end,COZ YOU KNOW ITS THERE.

 

[ladylola]

I'm assuming that you'd rather not take out your lining and buy another (well if you are as tight as me ) so I'd pack out the architrave.
By packing it out with a lenght of timber fixed to the frame you'll be able to "hide" the discrepancy between door and wall. You'll still see it if you are standing to the side but from the door way it won't be too bad as the lines will all be parallel. Also I'd cut the strip so as to allow the architrave to be rebated at the back towards the top to avoid it sticking out unduly.

 

[securespark]

gregors:

Cheers. There is no second door. Or, more correctly, there won't be. The door on the left is being reinstated. The door on the right is being blocked off.

LL:

Thanks. I did think of that, but then thought I'd ask here.

On the old RH door, they packed it with a filler of timber, but it is the same depth all the way down.

In my case, I'm going to need a tapering piece. Time for the power plane, methinks.

Not the one on the conveyor belt, though.

 

[ladylola]

Don't use a tapering piece use a piece that's parallel. That way the "taper " will be the gap behind or rather adjacent to the plaster and will be far less obvious.

 

[gregers]

just a thought are you doing a complete redec?
if so perhaps remove the plaster on the nib then feather new plaster in to the door lining.

 

[securespark]

Not sure what you mean.

The filler piece will be cut so that (from front to back) it is thinner at the bottom. From side to side, the filler piece will be the same thickness all the way down.

Or am I being thick? I am a sparkie, not really a chippie!

 

[securespark]

Sorry, greger, you've lost me too! Perhaps I'm tired!!

 

[ladylola]

If you cut your filler piece so that it follows the wall it will always look like a tapered filler. By keeping it parallel the architrave won't appear to be running off to the door, it'll look as if all is rosy. Now if you stand to the left in you photos you'll see the taper between the back of the architrave and the wall. By rebating the back of the arcitrave over the plaster the visual impact of this taper would be reduced. Hope this is clear.
Gregers idea is to skim the wall thicker at the bottom of the frame so that where wall meets frame it's all in line and feathered out over the wall.

 

[securespark]

Thanks LL, that deserves another THANKS.

 

[foxhole]

The door:

The top of the door relative to the wall:

The bottom of the door:

My options?

1. Fit new door casing tailored to odd wall.

2. Cut/ plane/ sand piece of wood to fit.

3. Fit casing out of true so gap is consistent.

Thanks.

Have you put a level on existing casing, more likely to be out than the wall in which case a new casing will solve the problem.

 

[securespark]

Thanks fox.

The casing on the LH door has been refitted by me a little to the left & is true, to within a millimetre.

The wall on the other hand, (which is a bit of a botch job from the eighties) is out.

 

[gregers]

unless this has been mentioned above,why not rebate both sets of arch's,
and move the lining over,basically your halfving the problem,or are the arch's to thin to be able to do this?