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Deleted member 174758
You are still looking at softwood which will look completely different to your door when oiled - I suggest you get a short length of softwood and try oiling it to see for yourself as nothing beats experience. What you actually need is hardwood, not PSE (softwood). I suppose it all depends on your point view and as a chippie I have definite ideas on what is and isn't right
And you are also back to trying to fix timber onto sheet material which will just warp over time. You can pin or staple a piece of board onto the back of a timber frame, providing the frame is strong enough (the frame alone needs to be thick enough to take the hinges, "add ons" just weaken the hinge screws' ability to hold onto the timber, even if glued on), but it will look really tacky when you open the door. Note that a rebate can be worked with a circular saw and a guide fence. So can a groove, even if that groove requires 2, 3 or 4 passes to achieve. But both are a bit difficult to do, which is why when you get into this sort of work a router becomes de rigueur
And you are also back to trying to fix timber onto sheet material which will just warp over time. You can pin or staple a piece of board onto the back of a timber frame, providing the frame is strong enough (the frame alone needs to be thick enough to take the hinges, "add ons" just weaken the hinge screws' ability to hold onto the timber, even if glued on), but it will look really tacky when you open the door. Note that a rebate can be worked with a circular saw and a guide fence. So can a groove, even if that groove requires 2, 3 or 4 passes to achieve. But both are a bit difficult to do, which is why when you get into this sort of work a router becomes de rigueur