I see so even when just checking if the door fits right and swings you still need all the screws in? I thought u could get away with one screw in each hinge
I see so even when just checking if the door fits right and swings you still need all the screws in? I thought u could get away with one screw in each hinge
I cut off (about an inch) off the bottom and top of the cupboard doors using circular saw. Will this have damaged the structure? The joint in picture (mortise and tenon)basically disappeared after 15mm or so was taken off. Didn't fall apart though .I also got round smashing out the end grain with the saw by stopping before the end and turning it over and cutting from other side
I cut off (about an inch) off the bottom and top of the cupboard doors using circular saw. Will this have damaged the structure? The joint in picture (mortise and tenon)basically disappeared after 15mm or so was taken off. Didn't fall apart though .
That doesn't mean to say it won't do in the future! These are fairly lightweight doors and TBH there isn't much strength in them. If you've removed the tenons what you are probably left with is in effect glued butt joints. In some circumstances you'll get away with that, but in a door it's decidedly iffy. I'd probably be looking to introduce a pocketed screw in each corner (or an angled dowels or a biscuit) because they won't be seen
As to hinges and screws, with a 3mm thick fire door hinge sitting in a hinge recess (which resists any tendency for the hinge to pivot under the weight of the door) you'll normally be able to get away with one screw (or more safely two - which can be used to pull the hinge flatter into the recess). As Foxhole says though, on a flimsy lightweight stamped metal hinge like yours it is all too easy to place excessive strain on the hinges and deform.them. And that's always assuming that they are straight to start with (they arent always). The good news is that they can generally be sorted out with a hammer and a lump of wood!
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