Dot and Dab

Did you see my reply to your duplicate post you put in Decorating and Painting you naughty boy?
How annoying is that :rolleyes:; I didn't spot it which is unusual for me :evil:

Sweenyuk; there is (normally) no point in duplicating posts as it tends to lead to confusion & seriously p isses off regular contributors who dedicate a lot of personal time to this; certainly as far as I’m concerned :evil:

Not too far apart on the detail Reg, horses for courses & I wouldn’t disagree with any of it; & you’re right that you can’t D&D Duplex boards. ;)
 
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darn, you caught me! :oops:

So many options i'm not sure whats best.

I'm now sure i'm going to have to build a stud wall in front of the existing wall but Metal or timber?

The gypliner universal doesnt require me to level the wall 1st & studs will be true.
but it requires me to use thermaline board to get insulation which will encroach into room further than timber & inserted kingspan.

If i build timber studwall i can insert the kingspan or celotex as mentioned in earlier post & board over with foil backed but i always find that the timbers are never perfectly true.

My next questions are:

Timber

Should i use treated wood in case it should absorb moisture in formed cavity?

What gap do i leave between framework & wall? want it as close as possible as half the wall is exposed brickwork & half still plastered?

Do i vapour barrier over the warm side of the studwork i.e just before screwing up boards?

Use foil backed boards?

Do i lay a damp proof membrane over the concrete floor before building studwork so the woodwork is not directly on the concrete floor?

Metal gypliner Universal

Can i insulate between the metal studs so i can use a smaller thermaline plus board?

Will the metal studs, being hollow make putting insulation between studs pointless?

Can the metal frame support the window board? part of the board will be supported by the brick wall but the front edge will overhang the metal frame & board, this worries me that a heavy relative may see the window board as a nice seat & sit on it bending the whole frame?

Type of insulation

On a slightly different topic i'm not sure of the best insulation to install in the walls but also between the ceing joists.

Seen on holmes on homes they use a type of rockwool slabs that is cut to friction fit between the joists that gives thermal, accoustic & fire insultion.
Whatever it is they use is non itch as they are not wearing gloves or masks?

Was planning on buying rockwool from selco or jewsons but read that its still an irritant?

thanks for all the help & wont duplicate on another post.
 
these are my very 1st posts in desperation to solve some of the many probs I'm facing to complete this house before my 1st baby arrives.

didnt know the etiquette.

sorry wont happen again.
 
Well you could still just fix battens to the wall and plasterboard them. Levelling them all up could be a pain, but you'll only lose about 40mm, whereas you'll lose lots more if you build a separate wall.

But if you've got damp coming in from the outside, and warm moist air inside, I can't see how you'll avoid condensation forming somewhere between the two during the colder months. So you might decide to either deal with any damp problems, or go down the insulation route. You're right though that if you use metal and don't have full insulation, the likelihood is that cold spots on the plasterboard will eventually start to develop black mould.
 
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Right i'm making my mind up & i'm going with a treated timber stud wall 10mm away from solid brick walls high spot, using 3x2 timbers.

My heating pipes & cables will be behind the studwall & insulation.

Will use kingspan 75mm inbetween framework then dryline with vapor check board.

If anythings wrong so far please let me know?

I plan to lay some plastic sheet on the concrete floor before securing base timber to floor.
Not sure if there is a purpose made gasket for seperating timbers from concrete?

Question.

What board do i use for the window & door reveals to keep the insulation continuity?

saw thermaline super on a link posted but not sure if i will need to vapour barrier around reveals 1st or if the boards insulation is like a vapour check.

Also did anyone have any ideas on the best non irritant insulation to use between ceiling joists?

Is rockwool best?

all help appreciated
 
I suppose you have considered simply hacking off and re-rendering? It's the way it was done originally, and unless you have serious damp problems, it'll last a good few years.

If you do have damp problems, probably best to focus on sorting those out first.

As for the reveals, there's not likely to be much scope for insulating as well as plasterboarding, so you might still get condensation there in the cold months.

And you're re-doing the ceiling as well? You might as well use the same 75mm kingspan - just make sure it overlaps the wall insulation.

Yes use a dpc under the sole plate.
You could use polythene behind the plasterboard to save the expense of vapour check board.

You could use normal 3 x 2 and splash some preservative on it yourself. Not sure whether it would save you much though.
 
what tape is best for joining dpm?

also what tape is used for vapour barrier?

see them using a red tape called tuck tape on diy shows but cant locate our equivalent.

also regarding insulation between joists, ideally need something soft like rockwall rather than kingspan.

but just wondered if there was a better alternative thats not itchy or is rock wool batts not too bad?
 
Would that be "Duck Tape" - you get grey duck tape in BnQ, good for dpm/vapur barrier (which should be lapped at joins)
 
no its def tuck tape and its red but only found it in canada & usa so far.

http://www.hellotrade.com/paisley-products/tuck-contractors-sheathing-tape.html

http://paint-and-supplies.hardwares...s/189-x-55-yd-red-sheathing-tape--616217.aspx

was under the impression that duck tape was not suited to sealing vapor barrier?

Is the grey material tape moisture proof? when i had to seal joints on xps foam insulation board i was given a white tape.

You could be right, although I've seen it used a lot on DPM for screeds, but that might be just to hold it in place before the screed goes on it.
 

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