Double pole switch locations

I have just finished commissioning a kitchen job with exactly the same situation.

Beautiful kitchen, with all glass splashback and 50' TV in adjoining dining room with center island and all that stuff.

I suggested having no surface switching of any kind visible so it didn't ruin the glasswork.

The solution was to have a grid switch in the cupboard, with DP switches isolating all appliances (8 in total, each with a fuse module), along with 2 x 40A DP switches for the Hob and Cooker.
All switching is accessible (I lowered them slightly as the lady wasn't the tallest) and all glass splashbacks are untouched.
 
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I must admit I've ruled out glass splashbacks because of the horrendous cost of each hole...

Knick - is there not going to be any wall space not covered with either cupboards or splashback where you could fit a grid plate?
 
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Put in plenty of outlets and save on tiling

socketwall2jo7.jpg
 
The only other wall would be the one opposite the appliances, along side a display unit.
No stud wall ends?

Returns with no corner wall units?

Could you stand to lose the bottom 15-20cm of space in a wall unit?
 
Also, just a thought about glass splash backs. They look great when the're brand new, but if you don't seal the edges well, the're a big PIA to clean between the wall and the back face of the glass. You also need to be sure that the wall is dead flat, kitchen units will tolerate slightly convex/concave walls, but glass doesn't.

Its all been said to the better half, But she is digging her heels in deeper than a north sea oil well. :(

Ask her to fit the splashbacks, telling her that she might as well get used to it as its going to be her who has to take them down every year to clean behind them.

Have you ever put a straight edge on the wall where the glass is intended to go?

Or do what JohnD suggests.. ;)
 
The only other wall would be the one opposite the appliances, along side a display unit.
No stud wall ends?

Returns with no corner wall units?

Could you stand to lose the bottom 15-20cm of space in a wall unit?


I have added some drawings.


Fridge freezer switch in our existing house is in a wall cupboard
and has been switched off a couple of times by plates being placed in cupboard.

They could be placed higher up out of the way but then you would need something to stand on to reach them, Not good if you are in a hurry.
 
Are you having pelmets fitted under the wall units ?

If so you could fit the isolators right up against the underside of the wall unit carcases and then they are out of sight, hidden by the pelmet and in the space that is wasted because of the pelmet.
FCUs for micro wave and oven, timer FCU for the dishwasher.

Excuse the poor grouting. But it is out of sight so I keep forgetting to get it sorted.[/img]
 
No, Bottom of the wall units will have an extra flat panel fitted below to
mount LED lights in.

Has any body fitted 2 x 32amp isolators into one of those
dual back boxes?

Would there be a gap between them?

The holes for the Hob and Oven isolaters could be made double the size take 2 32amp isolators and a bank of 4 grid switches.
 
I have used dual boxes and they are made so that two single accessories fit neatly together. No gap.
 
I have added some drawings.
What wall space is there to the right of the 300mm pull-out? i.e. are the doors to the conservatory in a reveal?


Fridge freezer switch in our existing house is in a wall cupboard
and has been switched off a couple of times by plates being placed in cupboard.

They could be placed higher up out of the way but then you would need something to stand on to reach them, Not good if you are in a hurry.
I asked if you could stand to lose the bottom 15-20cm of space in a wall unit, as my idea was to have them all there, but not on the sides - I envisaged them on a panel set below the bottom shelf, in the shaded area in this rather wonky sketch:

wallcup3p.jpg
 

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