H
holmslaw
..
no, not at all, i was merely trying to get you to substantiate your claim of 'many/most/lots/majority of electricians....believe in 20A 13A sockets. (I do get the feeling that you like to employ quite a bit of conjecture in your POV with the intention of making your POV a fact of 'how it is' and i think that is unfair if you won't back up your beliefs.) Since you weren't specific about who made those claims, but did seem to intimate that this belief was widespread. The actual wording of this is a point of pedantry, but the sentiment seemed quite clear.Ah – a subscriber to the fashionable ‘blame culture’ who needs 'named culprits'Go on, stick yr neck out and substantiate your claim that 'most electricans believe that.... 20A blah, blah etc...![]()
not intended to be manipulative, just a word change since i didn't scan back to ensure it was verbatim.Well, for a start, you have cunningly changed my 'many electricians' to 'most electricians'!
thats why i declined to go randomly searching in the dark, as per your invitation, to attempt to find something which you claim exists, but won't produce the facts yourself, when i don't agree that such evidence is in abundance anyway. Surely it would be appropriate for you to show the evidence, not for me to go find it....That aside, identifying the culprits has proved far more tedious than I had expected, because this forum's search facility is less sophisticated that I had hoped - it seems that in only searches within thread titles.
i would go further and suggest that the number of folk who claim '13A sockets are rated at 20A' would be in single figures at worst.I agree that no-one has said it explicitly in this thread.I believe that the belief in the existence of '20A 13A sockets' is far from widespread amongst electricians. Nobody has jumped into this thread to suggest or support this POV....
I think he has a care support team to help him sometimes, perhaps twice a day for washing and cleaning?BAS strikes me as someone who can look after himself,
admittedly, i overlooked that, but to be fair, when i see sheddy's name and lots of cut/paste adjacent to it, i often scan past it as it is usually just lots of offensive comments toward someone or other.so I'm not too hesitant to point out the he got very close early in the thread:
No - they would not be compliant with BS 1363 if that were the case.MK twin sockets are only rated to 13A total.
(and then added a paste from BS1363 indicating the 20A testing condition for double sockets, but without further comment)
I don't think sheddy is comfortable with being pidgeon-holed like thatI’m sure that he (I’m assuming it’s a he!)
Ah, I see. That would suggest that there is even less credibility to your 'most/many/lots of electricians believe...' thing. It would seem that sheddy stands alone in this belief, but he is not an electrician!will speak for himself, but I presume he was trying to suggest that the rating was not ‘13A total’ but 20A total;
I can’t think of any other interpretation. Whatever, he certainly was saying that RF Lighting’s ‘rating = 13A total’ was wrong.
So, you now have to rely on BAS's honesty to tell us what he would have answered if, at the time he wrote that message, he had been asked to state what he believed was the 'rating' of a double socket.
Kind Regard, John.
Many thanks for clarifying your view. Per earlier discussions, I think that this illustrates the reason for many of the confusions. In order for a double socket to be compliant with BS1363, it has to pass the temperature rise test (at 20A) you mention, but that does not mean that the product then has to be 'rated' at 20A. I think that these different 'understandings' of what is meant my 'rating'/'rated' is probably the basis of most of the apparent disagreements we've seen in this thread (and elsewhere).I believe that to be compliant with BS 1363 a DSO has to be rated at 20A - the test is carried out with the socket mounted inside a closed wooden box with the current flowing for at least 4 hours, and no more than 8 hours, by which time the temperatures of various parts of the socket must have become stable and must not exceed certain values.
If the information we have is all still current, I can but presume that the statement squares with the reported test results because a very small increase from 19.5A to 20A does not result in the product failing the BS1363 test - since it clearly is claiming compliance to that standard.How that time period and requirement to cope with 20A squares with "Research by ourselves and third party organisations has shown that all MK double sockets can safely withstand a continuous load of 19.5A for an indefinite period. Increasing the load slightly will begin to cause heat and mechanical stresses on the components in a relatively short period" I don't know,....
I didn't know it had been quoted that early in the IET forum. As I said, the post I was quoting from (which seems virtually identical to the earlier one you found) was posted on 2nd December 2009, namely December 2009. Unless you are missing it, it sounds as if that statement may have disappeared from more recent editions of the MK catalogue..... but I do know I can't find that statement on the MK website, or in either my electronic or paper MK catalogues. True they are not the latest, but they post-date April 2004.
Not at all. As I said, searching for the other assertions about a 20A 'rating' (which were the reasons I started the thread) is too tedious in this forum - that one instance from BAS was easy to find, since it's in this thread! If I stumble across any of the others, I'll let you know, but I'm not going to spend ages hunting for them.Ah, I see. That would suggest that there is even less credibility to your 'most/many/lots of electricians believe...' thing. It would seem that sheddy stands alone in this belief, but he is not an electrician!I’m sure that he (I’m assuming it’s a he!) will speak for himself, but I presume he was trying to suggest that the rating was not ‘13A total’ but 20A total;
Not quite correct BAS, the socket-outlet is mounted on a metal back box that is set into a wooden block. The front face of the socket-outlet will therefore be in free air, although the standard doesn't say so.I believe that to be compliant with BS 1363 a DSO has to be rated at 20A - the test is carried out with the socket mounted inside a closed wooden box with the current flowing for at least 4 hours, and no more than 8 hours, by which time the temperatures of various parts of the socket must have become stable and must not exceed certain values.
Not at all. As I said, searching for the other assertions about a 20A 'rating' (which were the reasons I started the thread) is too tedious in this forum - that one instance from BAS was easy to find, since it's in this thread! If I stumble across any of the others, I'll let you know, but I'm not going to spend ages hunting for them.Ah, I see. That would suggest that there is even less credibility to your 'most/many/lots of electricians believe...' thing. It would seem that sheddy stands alone in this belief, but he is not an electrician!I’m sure that he (I’m assuming it’s a he!) will speak for himself, but I presume he was trying to suggest that the rating was not ‘13A total’ but 20A total;
Kind Regards, John.
Well - apologies for any additional confusion - I guess I should have said "I believe that to be compliant with BS 1363 a DSO has to be rated at at least 20A....."Many thanks for clarifying your view. Per earlier discussions, I think that this illustrates the reason for many of the confusions. In order for a double socket to be compliant with BS1363, it has to pass the temperature rise test (at 20A) you mention, but that does not mean that the product then has to be 'rated' at 20A. I think that these different 'understandings' of what is meant my 'rating'/'rated' is probably the basis of most of the apparent disagreements we've seen in this thread (and elsewhere).
Again apologies for lack of precision - the socket itself is mounted in a metal back box - what I meant was that the whole assembly being tested is enclosed in a wooden box.Not quite correct BAS, the socket-outlet is mounted on a metal back box that is set into a wooden block.
No it doesn't, and you'd have to have (IMO) an odd definition of "free air" because (unless they've changed it - I've got the 1984 version), the description saysThe front face of the socket-outlet will therefore be in free air, although the standard doesn't say so.
I took this:The test is continued for at least 4 hours or until a stable temperature is reached, with a maximum of 8 hours, so the temperature could still be increasing after 8 hours.
I fear that doesn't really help the confusion but, rather, perpetutes the notion that BS1363 in some way dictates the 'rating' of a product.Well - apologies for any additional confusion - I guess I should have said "I believe that to be compliant with BS 1363 a DSO has to be rated at at least 20A....."
Again, frighteningly imprecise language for a Standard, but I am inclined to agree that your interpretation is probably what was intenbded.I took this:
The test current shall be passed through the plug
and through a load connected to the flexible cord for
a minimum continuous period of 4 h, or longer until
stability is reached with a maximum of 8 h, stability
being taken as less than1 K rise within 1 h. The
temperature rise is calculated by deducting the
reference point temperature from the measurement
point temperatures recorded (see Figure 17 and
Figure 17(a) respectively).
[Table snipped]
to mean that if the temperature had not stabilised it would fail the test.
That would be consistent with the purpose of the test, whereas allowing a socket to carry on getting hotter and hotter after 8 hours would make a mockery of it.
So :1995 says that the temperature rise test shall be carried out inside a test cabinet but does not describe how that cabinet is to be constructed or used?BAS, I suspect the standard has changed somewhat since your 1984 edition. There is no Figure 17a in the 1995 edition of Part 2. There is a box as you describe illustated in BS 1363 Part 1, but that is the standard for plugs, not socket-outlets. There are some references to cable lengths "within the enclosure" which, since no other enclosure is specified, must mean the back box.
The terms "standard knockouts" and "grommets" indicate with a high degree of certainty that they're talking about the socket backbox, not the test cabinet.The only reference I can find in Part 2 to sealing of entry and exit points is "Where possible, the cable shall enter and leave the enclosure through the standard knockouts provided and these, if required, shall be fitted with suitable grommets. The points of entry and exit shall be sealed to prevent circulation of air".
How does the actual text differ from the 1984 version? Does it no longer refer to the temperature stabilising at all?Regarding the test duration, "with a maximum duration of 8h" means exactly what it says, regardless of whether the temperature has stabilised.
None whatsoever.Do you have a view on why only one cable is used for the test of a dual socket-outlet?
The only thing CEA could not get away with would be claiming BS1363 compliance for a product that did not pass the tests specified by that standard.I take your point.
But MI's can't cancel BS requirements - if I had such a socket from Cautious Electrical Accessories plc, and I ran 20A through it and it suffered damage, CEA would not get away with saying "but we only rate it for 10A" when they've also said that it complies with BS 1363:1995.
I think the wording is far more ambiguous than you seem to believe - and, as I've said, on the basis of common sense I'm more inclined to go with BAS's interpretation of what was intended - although it's basically anyone's guess.Regarding the test duration, "with a maximum duration of 8h" means exactly what it says, regardless of whether the temperature has stabilised.
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local