Drilled into wire

Well, they would be a lot worse if they were not the exact size for the wire being crimped and vice versa.
Sure - but that's true of any crimps and any tool.
So, are butt-crimps not a good idea in the first place?
As I always say, from my very non-expert position,I've never been particularly comfortable with them - but who am I to know, given how widely used they are?!

Kind Regards, John
 
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The HEX crimp dies I'm used to are a proper HEX shape and the only difference being the seam between the 2 halves of the dies shows.

While on BT I had a hydraulic crimper on my toolkit which went up to 630mm². More recently the non Hydraulic version I've used stopped at 150mm² but crimping a cable that size requires a lot of pressure and therefore long handles. For some reason I haven't gone into the VEE & PIN type described earlier don't seem to need the same pressure but produce a less attractive finish, to date I've not been aware of any difference in reliability of the finished product. Another version being a VEE & PAD which for some reason a lot of people refuse to have any dealings with although I've not identified any problem.
 
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For what it';s worth, if I did it, I would probably be inclined to use something which was essentially 'non-liquid'(at least, very viscous) - like some sort of epoxy 'putty', or maybe Araldite glue (rather than resin).

Milliput would be perfect for that. I haven't checked it's suitability insulation wise, but does that matter? It is only intended to provide the mechanical protection, over the top of other, more suitable insulation.
 
Milliput would be perfect for that. I
That's the sort of epoxy 'putty' I was referring to
haven't checked it's suitability insulation wise, but does that matter? It is only intended to provide the mechanical protection, over the top of other, more suitable insulation.
I very much doubt that it is even remotely conductive, particularly once set/ cured (I would guess an 'excellent insulator').

If it were a little conductive, that would obviously only matter if it could come into contact with bare conductors (i.e. no 'adequate insulation') - which may or may not be the case, depending upon the type of 'electrical connection' within the resin (with many/most commercial 'resin joint kits', the resin presumably would come into contract with bare conductors).

Kind Regards, John
 
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I very much doubt that it is even remotely conductive, particularly once set/ cured (I would guess an 'excellent insulator').

I would assume so, but the manufacturer doesn't mention it in the specs.

If it were a little conductive, that would obviously only matter if it could come into contact with bare conductors (i.e. no 'adequate insulation') - which may or may not be the case, depending upon the type of 'electrical connection' within the resin (with many/most commercial 'resin joint kits', the resin presumably would come into contract with bare conductors).

True. In fact I think we may have arrived at a useful fix, should the need for one ever arrive.
 
I would assume so, but the manufacturer doesn't mention it in the specs.
Well, they do mention that it is 'electrically insulating', but I agree that there is no easily-findable 'spec' which quantifies that ...
Milliput said:
It is:
  • Self hardening
  • Non shrinking
  • Tough and durable
  • Sets underwater
  • Electrically insulating
  • Water, heat and chemical resistant
  • Highly adhesive to most materials
  • Moulds like putty - sets like rock
Kind Regards, John
 
Well, they do mention that it is 'electrically insulating', but I agree that there is no easily-findable 'spec' which quantifies that ...

I've used it, to repair a pair of earbuds, where they T, and one ear side was coming out of the T, plus the hook for winding a vacuum cleaners cable on. It takes quite a bit of mixing, easier if warmed up first. Then it takes 24 hours to fully set up, and it sets up very hard.
 

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