Drilled through kitchen ring

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Annoyingly, while putting up a shelf in my kitchen I have drilled through the cable in the ring for the kitchen sockets.

Before you all start tutting and calling me a stupid boy, I drilled into what should be a safe zone. Clearly, it wasn't. The upshot is that that the kitchen ring still works, but the fused spur to my washing machine does not. Two questions arise:

1) Is is safe to carry on using the kitchen ring?

2) What is the best way to repair the circuit with the least amount of damage? For example, would it be acceptable to repair the circuit using a chocbox and cover over with a blank plate?

In the meantime, I am not using any of the sockets in the kitchen but I am continuing to run my central heating. Hope this is safe.

Thanks in advance for your advice.
 
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It may work but the ring will be broken so the load will be going down one side of the ring instead of it being shared over two sides (hope this makes sense). This means that you could overload the cable as it cannot carry the 32amps that is the value of the mcb on that circuit.

You can join the cable with a terminal block but it must remain accessible. So you cant join it and plaster over. The better way is to use through insulated crimps, a proper rachet crimper and to sleeve the whole repair with heat shrink sleeving. The whole repair can then be buried and covered over.

If you must use the kitchen ring in the meantime, keep the load low = no washing machine, tumble dryer or dishwasher (I know, you'll have to get your hands wet!)

PS How come the cable wasnt run in the recognised zone? You should go and give someone a good kicking. This has caused death see here for an example: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk_politics/3735928.stm
 
Don't forget, if you just repair the cable and plaster over it, you will still be left with a cable not in a safe zone.

The better think to do would be to replace the cable, and route it in a proper manner, but this may involve some unwanted damage.

Would a blank plate on the wall just above one of the shelves bee too bad?

It wouldn't be immediatly on show, and you could use an architrave box and blank plate to keep it looking a little less obtrousive.
 
Cheers TTC and RF for your replies.

I'm all too aware that just repairing and plastering over is a big no-no. A blank plate on the wall was my first thought but TTC's suggestion with the crimps and heat shrink sleeving sounds like a winner. However, I think I'll have someone in to sort it out. Never done crimps before and I don't intend to bodge it.

The annoying thing about all this is that I have photographs of all the cable routes from when I had my kitchen refitted last year. The photos are on another computer though.

I just assumed (which in hindsight was damn stupid) that drilling into what I thought was a safe zone would be okay.
 
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hi you say the fcu does not work can you explain the lay out
is it possible you have drilled through the load side
and the ring is still complete
 
Jockspark, I'll try to describe it:

The kitchen ring has five double sockets. There are also two fused spurs at worktop level (with LEDs), both of which serve sockets underneath the worktop. One is for the dishwasher, the other is for the washing machine. The sockets are about 3m away from the FCUs.

I've only managed to knock out the fused spur to the washing machine (i.e. LED is not lit). The dishwasher spur still works.

The area I drilled into is nowhere near the FCUs - in fact there's a window between the drilled area and the FCUs. Nor have I drilled directly above the spurred sockets.

Is that sufficient info? I suspect not.
 
can you open the fcu that does not work and see if it is a ring or a spur if you had split the ring it would still be supplied from the other leg this makes me think it could be a spur off the ring do you have a multi meter
 
I don't have a multimeter but I can tell you that the there are three sets of 2.5mm twin and earth into each FCU.

I know that some FCUs are labelled "Supply" and "Load". Mine are labelled "In" and "Out". There are two lives and two neutrals to the "In" and just one to the "Out".
 
sorry mate cant see how i can help if you only drilled one cable the other cable would give you a supply unless the ring was incomplete
you would have to split the ring and test before and after the fault
to find where the damaged cable is then work out the easy rout to replace it but without a meter you are a bit snookerd sorry i could not be of more help
 
I sense a little confusion over the term 'safe zone'

Spogobongo says it was IN a safe zone.

The term 'safe zone' means where cables are likely to be run (perhaps UNsafe zone would be a more suitable term)

This is the area that should be avoided. Or drilled only if prior investigations show there to be no cable in the area.

No, it wasn't me that said 'stupid boy', honest. ;)
 
I assume you have checked the fuse in the fcu. If so, and the neon light does not work when you switch the FCU on, you are either blowing the fuse immediately (due to the damage with your drill) or your FCU was not on a complete ring before the event. It is possible that your kitchen is not on a ring, but a "Y", because the installer didn't close the loop. You need a multi-meter to check it out.
 
Okay, safe zone or unsafe zone, the terminology is up to you. But I drilled in an area where there shouldn't have been any cable. It's neither directly above, below, left nor right of an electrical socket or installation.

As for checking the fuse - I'm sorry to say I haven't. I'm cutting my losses here and now and getting someone in to sort it out. What I do know is that I have definitely drilled through the neutral because I had blue insulation and copper wire in the detritus that came out of the freshly drilled hole.

I know my limits - and this is way beyond it.

Thanks for all your advice and help - much appreciated.
 
as the man said you could have a blown fuse any way of testing fuse i no you have no meter take the fuse out and put it in something you know works
if it does we could be looking at just the cable from fcu to outlet
 

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