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Deleted member 174758
What I often find with the young joiners we get is that when you ask them to drill steel (for example to fix a timber connection piece to an RSJ) many invariably don't understand the need to centre punch the hole first, drill the hole in stages (e.g. 4mm, 8mm, 10.5mm), use a lubricant (cutting fluid, 3-in-1 or even WD40 at a pinch) and reduce the drill speed. When you get up to 10mm or so reducing the speed to between 500 and 1000rpm reduces the tendency of the drill bits to burn out and blunt too quickly or to "skate" and not cut well.
Another point to bear in mind is that whilst M2 grade (HSS) twist drills work on many lower grade steels and cast iron, they can be less than useless when attempting to drill electro-arc steels (made from scrap) such as that found in modern structural steels used in buildings (e.g. RSJ and UBs). For those I find you need to go to M42 HSS steel twist drills (also called "cobalt steel twist drills")
Another point to bear in mind is that whilst M2 grade (HSS) twist drills work on many lower grade steels and cast iron, they can be less than useless when attempting to drill electro-arc steels (made from scrap) such as that found in modern structural steels used in buildings (e.g. RSJ and UBs). For those I find you need to go to M42 HSS steel twist drills (also called "cobalt steel twist drills")
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