Yes I did some like that, linking switch of the PIR outputs that could be switched off for setting up purposes makes it easier. Plus if you like to sometimes use them as individual units.
You just need to verify that the outputs are thru relays rather than semiconductors which can cause a lock up on some types.
Actually if you already have the wrong type and don`t want to change them you could go to the addition of relays (probably needing a seperate housing and conductors, if space within the units is limited) .
In todays world it is probably better to get some smart ones instead though.
One I particularly remember was a fellow electrician helping me , that`s two of them on different jobs cocked things up by not following what I told them and it beggared the job up in both instances "They had a idea" Ok in itself but failed to run their "good idea" thru me before implementing it. costing cable and time rather than saving it. Aghhh. LOL.
One of those was Two corner PIR floods at the end elevation of the garage and a side wall looking down steps.
The other "half" of that one was two PIR floods near the back door, one side of which had steps too.
The instruction I`d given was to wire each one from a central point via a "plant room" sort of set up.
The consumer unit, heating valves and controls etc etc were all in this small room and it was a pretty much central point of the house.
The idea was to use a 6 gang switch.
If all switches were off then each unit was independent for setting etc.
2 or 3 of one bank of floods could be switched on in "busbar link" fashion to give links to the outputs and the other 2 could be similarly linked together for the bank of two.
That is 5 switches of the 6 gang switch.
If required the 6th switch could be used to link the two banks together.
Result intended.
A/ use independantly.
B/ use as two banks interconnected - as a bank of 2 and a bank of three.
C/ all 5 units linked .
What that electrician did was run a three core from the the plant room to the first of the three bank, then 1st to second, 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, saves time saves cable used.
The two bank was done similar fashion.
Yer Great if you always wanted them interlinked.
Seeing as we only had enough cable to do as I had planned (plus a bit spare) and I did not want to start adding junction boxes unnecessarily we pulled out all the cable and went to get a new roll of 3C & E .
Bloomin` charming I thought, I was not very happy.
Actually that same chap did a similar trick on the downlighters in the large kitchen too
.
I had given him a box of the blue "click connectors" with the instruction to wire in T & E to each connector then a length of hr flex from the plug part of the connector to each individual downlight.
OK it makes the job more expensive and time consuming but testing/fault finding/alterations and additions would be a godsend.
He wired in from 1st to 2nd, from 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th etc etc for the whole bank (there were 3 banks individually switched each containing approx 6 or 7 downlighters).
What he did was directly loop from the first one of each bank to 2nd, 3rd, 4th etc directly in T & E and he was pleased that he had "saved" time and money by not using the click connectors or HR flex.
Yer Great!
