Dull sound Over 20.

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I purchased a new car, a skoda octavia 2012. When I drove it, it picked up a loud droning sound coming from the front. I originally thought it was maybe the handbrake being stuck on as one pad was very thin, the other had lots of life left. I've have changed the rear breaks, and cleaned up the discs, front also seem okay. However the sound still happens. The sound changes to a lower pitch when breaking.

Here is 2 videos of the sound.


 
For what it's worth, here's my method for checking wheel bearings.
(You won't generally feel any play in them, they are pretty large!)
IF THE CAR IS A 4X4 GO NO FURTHER!
Jack the car up so both wheels are clear of the ground and able to spin. Install axle stands.
Spin each wheel in turn, feeling the bottom of the strut. Then:
Start the car up, engage first gear and allow the wheels to spin.
Steer one way, then the next, feeling the bottom of the suspension strut......any grumble will be evident by feel.
BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN DOING THIS! It is somewhat unorthodox but it was demonstrated to me years ago, and it worked for me.

You don't say what age or mileage the car has covered but after say 80k miles they are on borrowed time.

Some makes of tyre can be a red herring for wheel bearings....Maxxis have caught me out twice!

John :)
 
It's not 4x4, front wheel drive so worstcase could do both, the sound comes from the passenger side. I'll definitely be replacing wheel bearings, it's 143k miles, it's my 2nd car and I bought it from a mate for cheap as a bit of a project
 
I normally find a clear road, get up to speed then swerve from side to side to see if the noise changes. If it is noisier when you swerve to the right, it’s the left bearing as that is being loaded up. Vice versa for the other side.
 
Difficult, but the wheel bearings would be my first call.
John :)
Cheers John, just out of curiosity I'm looking around, online you can get them for 40-60 quid, but napa car parts etc do like 90 quid. Any recommendations where is the best place to get them from
 
I use my local motor factor - most important is the maker of the replacement bearing.
I like Japanese stuff or Febi Bilstein and you generally get what you pay for.
I don't know which type of bearing the Octavia has - whether it is pressed into the hub (not really a DIY repair) or a bolt in type which is a DIY job with experience.
John :)
 
Cheers John, just out of curiosity I'm looking around, online you can get them for 40-60 quid, but napa car parts etc do like 90 quid. Any recommendations where is the best place to get them from

SKF brand of bearings seem to be a reliable manufacturer, lots of people seem to recommend them. Have fitted them before myself with no problems.
 
Some VAG cars have (had?) tapered roller bearings, which are very good, but need great care in fitting. There is probably a crush washer to help.
 
I can't recall any FWD (or AWD) vehicle having taper roller bearings in the drive hubs, but for sure they used to be used by VW on the rears.
Front hub bearings are usually twin ball race, but some have twin rollers too. They are so well made the driveshaft nut can have a huge torque figure and internal clearances will be perfect. No lubrication is possible.
Traditional taper roller bearings should just have a little play on them when the wheel is mounted, and greasing was down to the mechanic.
John :)
 
Some VAG cars have (had?) tapered roller bearings, which are very good, but need great care in fitting. There is probably a crush washer to help.
Crush washer? On a wheel bearing? Can’t say I’ve ever seen a crush washer on any wheel bearing on any car. Ever.
 
Quick Look around indicates that a new bearing would be a bolt on for a 2012 Octavia but if you're in a situation where a new bearing isn't a bolt in, you might find it easier to replace the entire hub with a second hand one rather than press a new bearing in. Sometimes bearings just go bad- the other side of the car may roll on for thousands of miles with no issue, so I've never had any qualms about fitting a second hand entire wheel knuckle just to replace a bearing (passenger side one in my Volvo gave up at 120, replaced with a second hand knuckle from an 80k miler and both were still ok at 200k)
 
They are so well made the driveshaft nut can have a huge torque figure and internal clearances will be perfect. :)

When I undid the d/s nut on my van some time ago, it wasn't that tight. I can only assume the mechanic who last undid it didn't have a torque wrench that went up to the required 300 nm. This does seem a lot. My Norbar didn't go up to anything like this figure when it was time for me to torque it up on re-assembly. No ordinary car garages in the area had a torque wrench that would go up that high either. In the end I went to a commercial vehicle garage, and the mechanic got his large wrench out and obliged. FOC.
 
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