Earth Leakage Detector

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My thinking it so create a small extension cable with the earth cable separated from the live and neutral so I can clamp the above device around it.
Right thinking but you measure the L & N together to determine the residual current which can flow anywhere - not necessarily through the CPC.

That is what the RCD detects. It knows nothing nor cares about the actual current on the CPC.
 
if you were confident in your ability then you could try swapping the RCBO's over so the Garage one looks after the Downstairs and the current downstairs one the garage and see if the problem remains.
 
if you were confident in your ability then you could try swapping the RCBO's over so the Garage one looks after the Downstairs and the current downstairs one the garage and see if the problem remains.

The RCD itself has just literally been changed a couple of days ago by an electrician from 16amp to 30amp as he suspected that the 16amp was tripping due to over current.
 
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odd that he wouldnt test that rather than just up the amperage. The treadmill will draw the most power when its just starting up really.
 
I'm thinking I may just disconnect the garage cabling, and run a new cable from one of the sockets in the extension through to the garage. Would certainly seem to be the most cost effective option.
 
you should be aware that you need to make sure you maintain the ring structure - if wired that way - or use a fuse spur next to the socket in the extension and power the sockets in the garage from that making sure to disconnect the furthest garage sockets return leg of the ring from the furthest socket - again if wired as a ring and not a 4mm radial.
 
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According to the manual, it would. 1mA resolution.
It's a bit confusing, and I wonder what is actually being sold on eBay ...

As you say, the UT210A manual says that it has a resolution of 1mA on the 2A range, and the pictures in the manual do, indeed (consistent with that), show a 3.5 digit display.

However, the several photos in the eBay listing show a 2.5 digit display - so the lowest current that could be displayed with the 2A range would presumably be 0.01A - i.e. 10 mA (and that could mean anything between 5 and 15 mA)

If I were the OP, I think I'd be interrogating the eBay seller - particularly because, as you have observed, the price is rather worryingly low.

Kind Regards, John
 
i still can't see a clamp meter being that sensitive
 
i still can't see a clamp meter being that sensitive
Some (although usually much more expensive that this one) are, and this one certainly claims to be - (click here) .

However, although it claims to have a resolution of 1 mA (on 2A range), it's not in any way accurate. It claims that, on that range, the accurace is ±(4% + 30 digits). By my reckoning, that that means that an indicated current of, say, 30mA, could mean anything from zero to 61.2 mA, and that any current less than 30 mA could display as zero ... which, if true, would make it pretty useless! Have I got my sums wrong?

Kind Regards, John
 
Oooh. I didn't see the 30 digit part.

My meter, by no means expensive compared to the big names, which measures mAs has a 40mA range so doing it on 2A range is - what? - suspect?
 
Oooh. I didn't see the 30 digit part.
Indeed - and even that is assuming that it does have a 3.5 digit display, rather than the 2.5 digit one shown in the eBay photos! As I said, if my interpretation of the accuracy quoted in the manual is correct, it's totally useless for currents below 100 mA or so.
My meter, by no means expensive compared to the big names, which measures mAs has a 40mA range so doing it on 2A range is - what? - suspect?
I doubt that it was as cheap as mine! As with the one we're talking about, its lowest range is 2V (and it has a 3.5 digit display - so can display down to 1mA), but it does have a considerably better claimed accuracy than the Uni-T one - namely ±(2% + 5 digits) - so at least one has to get down to below about 5mA before it might display zero!

Kind Regards, John
 
THis may seem a silly question but...
If that has only just been changed why is it a TYPE 3. In fact why are the others TYPE3 and TYPE C? I assume this is a residential situation.
 
I'm thinking I may just disconnect the garage cabling, and run a new cable from one of the sockets in the extension through to the garage. Would certainly seem to be the most cost effective option.

Only if the problem is with the existing burried cable, which is by no means certain.
 

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