Einhell Plunge Saw

[Sonic70]

Hi All,
Just bought an einhell plunge saw and the tracks also. Before I take out the rubber strips for the first time I decided to check how the cutting disk lined up in the machine. If you look at the attached image the disc is closer to the machine body at the bottom of the picture than at the top. Is this correct, don't want to mess my tracks up if the disc isn't in the correct alignment.

Thanks
Victor

 

[foxhole]

What’s important is if it is parallel to track , the body of the saw may not look correct but it’s a cheap saw .

 

[flameport]

If you buy cheap crap, you shouldn't be getting busted up over minor alignment issues.

 

[Sonic70]

Flameport I've only bought it to cut my kitchen end panels, so I'm not going to spend loads of money on a plunge saw and rails. I'm only asking if anyone has any helpful advice on this and thought their may be some minor adjustment I can do.

 

[opps]

Might be a trick of the light, but the blade doesn't look parallel to the body.

 

[Sonic70]

It's not opps, some other people online mention some toe in rather than a parallel blade to body.

 

[Diver Fred]

@Sonic70 - which is the front of the saw in your picture? The blade should be set parallel to toe in. If it isn't and it isn't adjustable then take it back to swop. It should be parallel to the track not the saw base.
As the anti-chip rubber is replaceable maybe you run it once along the length of melamite board (Conti board) to see If the top surface chips.

 

[opps]

It's not opps, some other people online mention some toe in rather than a parallel blade to body.

I guess that means that the rubber strip will be slightly out when you are lining it up to your pencil lines. Can't see what you can do to adjust the blade though. I am lucky enough to have a Festool plunge saw, but I understand why you wouldn't want to spend that much for a one off job.

 

[opps]

BTW, with regards to possible chipping. If on the first pass of each cut, you go for a depth of cut of about 0.5mm, you will score the surface and then shouldn't need to worry about chipping.

 

[Sonic70]

Thanks opps for your advice on the scoring. Your right I I was a serious woodworker or a chippie I probably would spend 800 quid on one.

 

[big-all]

It's not opps, some other people online mention some toe in rather than a parallel blade to body.

never tried toe in as parallel to me is 100% now not saying it wont work [i assume sub1mm] but it will mean the blade cutting on the upstroke on the back edge as well causing possible burning and extra drag on the motor

 

[Sonic70]

I agree big-all, I would set it up parallel. I will contact manufacturer on Monday to see if it can be adjusted to be parallel.

 

[big-all]

i suspect iff you go ontop at each end off the base just behind the guard you will have 1 or 2 bolt/screw/hex screw at each end off the guard
they will be before the groove underneath so in a 50 or so mm area

 

[Diver Fred]

Is this your saw?

Einhell Service

www.einhell-service.com

from !ink posted there is an exploded parts drawing. My observation is the Sole and the Power head Cradle are separate items so adjustment / alignment should be possible. I'd look to check the distance from leading and trailing ends of the blade to the closest edge to the blade of the furthest rail slot.

 

[Sonic70]

Diver Fred. Thanks for that, just what I was looking for yesterday but couldn't find. Much appreciated.