Electic oven burnt plug.

Perhaps another alternative would be to put a "garage type" consumer unit containing two MCBs, 32A and 16A at the end of the cable from the cooker control isolator. From this 6mm direct to the hob and 2.5mm to the oven via an IEC 60309 or even a BS546 or schuko. This approach, hopefully will minimise the disruption.
 
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Perhaps another alternative would be to put a "garage type" consumer unit containing two MCBs, 32A and 16A at the end of the cable from the cooker control isolator.
There isn't one.

From this 6mm direct to the hob
Not sure there is an electric hob - if there was that would imply a dedicated cooker circuit - which would mean connecting an oven to it would not be a problem.
 
Something doesn't ring true -

There are 4 fuses in the consumer unit none(removable ones) none labeled. 2 x 5amp 2x 30amp I know the 5amps control the upstairs / downstairs lights, so i assume the other 2 are for the electrics upstairs/ downstairs? Does this sound right.

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1937857#1937857[/QUOTE]

I don't understand what your getting at? :confused:

That post was when I had the old consumer unit with the fuses with the alloy in. At the same time as fitting our kitchen I got an electrician to upgrade our consumer unit this was the same guy who said it was fine to plug that oven in.
 
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I've tested it all by flicking the switches on the consumer unit all the kitchen is definately on the same ring.
 
with 2 x 5A fuses and 2 x 30A fuses I would have expected 5A Upstairs lights; 5A downstairs lights, 30A upstairs sockets; 30A downstairs sockets, assuming the house used to have a gas cooker

But of course you never know.

The electrician who fitted the new CU ought to have invested in a pen.
 

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