Electric Built-in Oven and Separate Gas Hob - Connection

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I am about to fit a replacement built-in electric oven. It has a lead with a 13A fused plug to connect to power. The kitchen has a typical oven switch (red) with an associated 3 pin socket fitted on the wall above the work surface. There is a 45A single connector plate on the wall in the oven cavity under the work surface.

On the previous oven installation someone had removed the 13A plug and cable and connected a 6mm² twin and earth flex directly from the wall connector plate to the terminals on the oven. This time the new oven has the power lead connected in a different location that makes it extremely difficult to do the same.

There is an added issue that the original installation (e.g. 3 ovens ago and supposedly professionally installed) includes the wiring for the gas hob (still working). This is simply for the ignition spark. On the original installation there is a 1.0mm² 3 core cable running from the hob and simply connected to the same terminals on the 45A single connector plate as the oven.

Should I really connect the oven using the 13A plug into a socket? If so can I simply replace the current 45A wall mounted connector plate with a double 3-pin socket outlet, plug the oven into one, put a plug on the hob ingnition lead and plug that into the other socket?
 
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Should I really connect the oven using the 13A plug into a socket?
That would be the easiest way.

If so can I simply replace the current 45A wall mounted connector plate with a double 3-pin socket outlet, plug the oven into one, put a plug on the hob ingnition lead and plug that into the other socket?
Yes.
 
So there is no special requirement for the 'duty' of the socket in this case?
 
Also, looking at the original connection I described for the previous oven, where the 13A plug and lead had been removed and replaced with a directly connected 6mm² twin and earth flex then I'm guessing there was no fuse in the circuit other than the 32A MCB!
 
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Also, looking at the original connection I described for the previous oven, where the 13A plug and lead had been removed and replaced with a directly connected 6mm² twin and earth flex then I'm guessing there was no fuse in the circuit other than the 32A MCB!
4mm² would have been adequate for 32A - plus if certain conditions are met (that you will not have the equipment to test) then the original flex might also have been satisfactory.
 
What I'm eluding to is that if the oven was fitted with a 13A fused plug originally then the oven is designed to draw less than 13A. However if that plug and lead is cut off and replaced with a straight T+E(4mm² or 6mm²) and if a fault developed in the oven it could potentially draw up to 32A before the MCB flipped ... if the oven internals were built to take a max of 13A could that not potentially be a fire risk?
 
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What I'm eluding to is that if the oven was fitted with a 13A fused plug originally then the oven is designed to draw less than 13A.
Yes.

Fuses and circuit breakers are to protect the cable; not the appliance.

However if that plug and lead is cut off and replaced with a straight T+E(4mm² or 6mm²) and if a fault developed in the oven it could potentially draw up to 32A before the MCB flipped
No, it doesn't work like that - the oven cannot overload the circuit and if a short circuit (L to N) or fault to earth (L to E) occurs then the disconnection will be instant.
Anyway - the 4mm² and 6mm² can cope with more than 32A.

... if the oven internals were built to take a max of 13A could that not potentially be a fire risk?
They cannot be subject to more than 13A. Appliances draw current; it is not forced through them.
As above for a short circuit or fault current.
 
Promise that this is my last post on this! The reason I'm replacing the oven is that the heating element failed spectacularly (the oven element not the grill). My son went into the kitchen and spotted sparks showering from the fan area at the back. This didn't stop it carried on, eventually my son decided to turn it off at the wall switch. When I removed the element I could see blobs of moulten metal and the element had fractured and 'spot welded' itself to the interior metalwork. The interior metalwork (lining?) had split as well where the element had touched it. Not sure what would have happened if my son hadn't spotted it by chance.
 
I don't know what to say about that.

As you said above, the interior wiring is not very big and yet one of the wires had not melted but the element and body of the oven had.
 

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