Electric cooker replacement

[drives]

Hi all,

We've got a new freestanding electric oven with induction hob- I need to replace an existing integrated gas hob and oven.

Quite happy with the worktop cabinet alterations....the kitchen is being redone soon anyway. I'm also getting the gas meter removed in a couple of weeks so isolating the gas hob won't be a problem either.

There is the switch on the wall for the oven, plus it is on it's own RCD within the fusebox. Is installing the new one likely to be straightforward or is it best to leave to an electrician? If it is DIY'able what would be the best way of connecting it up/making sure that the wiring for the existing oven is suitable and can be recommissioned to connect to the new one? I've attached some pictures of current setup, and the connection diagram on the reverse of the new oven....

The last photo is the wiring coming out of the new oven- so it is the separate cores rather than in flexi cable.

Any advice appreciated.

 

[AndyPRK]

if current oven mcb is 32a
Just disconnect cable from old oven and connect to new.

Connect at per the top diagram
With 123 linked together

Pic of oven switch would be helpful

 

[JohnD]

There ought to be an outlet in the wall where the cooker cable is connected. Please show us. Your old oven is a single electric which could be supplied from a 13A outlet which is not adequate for an electric cooker. Please show us the breaker in tne consumer unit for the cooker circuit.

 

[drives]

Thanks both.

The new oven fuse rating is indeed 45amp. We have a big red switch (I can remove it to double check the reverse but looks like oven switches are all rated at 45amp?). I assume I may well have a cooker connection unit behind the oven somewhere?

The breaker is B32 (it's the one labelled new cooker circuit- there is another one labelled 'cooker' but this doesn't seem to isolate anything to do with the existing oven or hob) so I am guessing this needs to be upgraded to 45 as this one is rated as 32? Perhaps this is the point where I need to get an electrician in...

I also don't quite understand the wiring from the oven itself. It is a v short 2 core and earth at the bottom of the oven with a label stating that they aren't to be used for wiring connection?

I did pay for professional installation with AO, but despite confirming my current kitchen set up with integrated units explicitly to them to make sure they were happy (I even called them back to check a few days prior), when they turned up they refused to touch it which was frustrating. Thus I really appreciate your advice as even if I can get a head start with understanding what I need, when trying to get someone in if this is beyond DIY, that would be most helpful.

 

[Taylortwocities]

I am guessing this needs to be upgraded to 45 as this one is rated as 32? Perhaps this is the point where I need to get an electrician in...

Not so easy.. upping the MCB means that a new bigger cable is needed. You dont want that. Tell the make and model of your oven.

 

[drives]

Not so easy.. upping the MCB means that a new bigger cable is needed. You dont want that. Tell the make and model of your oven.

I did wonder that, as there's no way AO were going to do that with the swap over. All they wanted to know is whether there was a big red switch...

https://shop.smeguk.com/range-cooke...on-hob-and-digitouch-control-stainless-steel/

Rating 10kW.

 

[flameport]

I also don't quite understand the wiring from the oven itself. It is a v short 2 core and earth at the bottom of the oven with a label stating that they aren't to be used for wiring connection?

Used for factory testing only. It needs to be removed and a more suitable cable attached. 3 core HO7 flex would be a decent choice. Some use flat T&E.

The breaker is B32

Suitable for pretty much any domestic cooker, oven or hob combinations.

 

[flameport]

Rating 10kW.

Existing 32A circuit is suitable.

 

[Taylortwocities]

The new oven fuse rating is indeed 45amp

Where did you get that from?

 

[drives]

Used for factory testing only. It needs to be removed and a more suitable cable attached. 3 core HO7 flex would be a decent choice. Some use flat T&E.


Suitable for pretty much any domestic cooker, oven or hob combinations.

Ah right...makes sense. I have now unscrewed the small backplate and can see the 5 connection points with correlate with the wiring diagram on the back.

Thanks for confirming the 32A circuit will be fine.

Last question, I think. What cable do I need and how would I connect the live and link to the three separate connection points 1,2 and 3 as per wiring diagram?

 

[drives]

Where did you get that from?

From the AO website....

smeg cooker

Product specification and then installation bit

 

[flameport]

What cable do I need

Couple of metres of this: https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/pro...ber-flexible-cable-cut-length-sold-by-the-mtr

link to the three separate connection points 1,2 and 3

Links will most likely be preinstalled in the connection block, or perhaps attached to the side of it.

 

[drives]

Couple of metres of this: https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/pro...ber-flexible-cable-cut-length-sold-by-the-mtr


Links will most likely be preinstalled in the connection block, or perhaps attached to the side of it.

Great- will order some of that.

Having had another look I can indeed see the little U shaped metal connector pieces

 

[drives]

Thanks very much for everyones help and advice!

Edit: found this video which explains it really well in terms of why 45a circuit not needed.