Electric Hot Water Cylinder

[old duffer]

LPG and a continuos water heater...all problems solved

 

[Pete Deker]

Thank you so much for all this but sorry to say I don’t understand it because I don’t know about these things, eg kw, air bubbles, how hot temps will affect time it’s not my field unfortunately
Firstly I don’t have economy 7, just one rate of electricity so if I use the one hour boost is that more expensive to
Use than if I use the timer or is the cost the same because I only have one rate charge of electricity?
Also can I change from using one immersion to the other myself or isn’t that possible ?
And when I have it on a timer not boost does that make the other immersion come on for longer hot water?
The heater controller isn’t easy either, I know it says economy 7 but we def don’t have economy 7, here is a pic

 

[Johntheo5]

Someone familiar with that timer will reply to you hopefully, can you just check that that there is a actual cable coming from the bottom heating element.

In post #8 you said that part of your cylinders info says.......

"Corrugated StainlessLite Supercoil for faster recovery times", but your cylinder does not have a coil, is this correct?.

 

[Pete Deker]

PS It’s not an all singing all dancing power shower, it’s an ordinary shower and I don’t use it streaming down at 100 miles an hour but
just quite gently. yes there is a cable coming from the bottom element.

 

[MNW67]

You mentioned it is a new cylinder. What did you have before and how well did that work? Do you have a photo of the shower and the shower head?

 

[Pete Deker]

There was an oso here before 170 ltr, was 14. I really only used to put the boost on daily for an hour with that. Yes I used to shower for about 7 mins and then the water went cool with that but I felt with a brand new cylinder it would be better.

 

[Johntheo5]

This is the wiring diagram and the default night time setting, I don't think the controller knows or cares where its supply is from, so as long as there is a (switched) live from terminal 5 out to the bottom element (with its neutral to terminal 3, as well as the neutral from the top element) then the bottom element should be timed on from 0215AM to 0715AM each "night", of course the immersion thermostat will switch off the element once it has reached its setpoint temperature, this timed period can be changed and any of the other timed periods added if required, since you don't have economy 7.

As a easy test, just use up any remaining HW before going to bed, when you get up in the morning then you should have the maximum volume of HW available, if not get a competent person to have a look at it.

 

[MNW67]

There was an oso here before 170 ltr, was 14. I really only used to put the boost on daily for an hour with that. Yes I used to shower for about 7 mins and then the water went cool with that but I felt with a brand new cylinder it would be better.

You seem to have replaced one cylinder with another very similar (and actually smaller) cylinder. I don't see any reason why the new cylinder would work any better. Unless there had been a fault with the old cylinder which stopped it working as intended.

 

[JohnD]

it’s an ordinary shower and I don’t use it streaming down at 100 miles an hour but just quite gently.

Fill a bucket from the shower.

Time it.

How many litres per minute does it deliver?

 

[stem]

Usually how it works is that:

1. Setting the timer on/off programme controls the bottom immersion heater which heats the whole cylinder. This is usually used during the night when half price electricity is available [Economy 7, or Economy 10 for example] As you say you don't have this then it doesn't matter what times you choose. Perhaps for a couple of hours before you get up. Don't be stingy with the 'on' time. Once the hot water has been heated the immersion's internal thermostat will switch it off anyway, so once this has happened, even if the timer was still 'on' the immersion won't be using any electricity.

2. The BOOST button operates the top immersion heater so only the top part of the cylinder will be heated. As has been said, this is generally for a quick top up for hand / pot washing.

This is the standard way of installation. However, it could have been wired up differently, the person that did it would be able to confirm.

 

[Johntheo5]

The switch says Off, Switched Output, Timed.

Are these 3 settings?, is Switched Output a Constant On request for the bottom element? or are there only two settings. OFF & Timed and Switched Output is just a descriptor on the switch?

 

[stem]

OFF: the electrical supply to the immersion heater/s is disconnected but the clock, display and indicator lights will still operate.

TIMED: the bottom immersion heater (called 'off peak' on the wiring diagram you posted) will be switched on and off at the programmed time settings and the boost facility for the top element is available if required

SWITCHED OUTPUT as you suspect is just a name describing what the switch does.

 

[Johntheo5]

Thanks, I think the question was asked above re having both elements on together, I presume one cannot and that the Boost only works during the OFF Timed periods??.

 

[stem]

If it's installed according to the wiring diagram, it's only possible to have one immersion heater on at a time. With the bottom heater taking priority.

The red arrow indicates the switch that is the 'timer' which is shown in the OFF position above. When the timer switches ON, it moves from this position across to the left, terminal 5 becomes live and the bottom element is switched ON.

The green arrow indicates the Boost switch. Which is shown in the OFF position. Operating the Boost moves the switch over to the right, terminal 4 becomes live and the top element is switched ON. However, once the timer switches ON, the switch marked by the red arrow moves over to the left and removes the live supply away from the Boost switch which stops it working.

The end result is only one element can be ON at any point time and the bottom element takes priority.