Electric shower or bath tap mixer
- Thread starter Fallout
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Rate of flow? Easily usually the mixer run from a combi, but if the combi breaks down, no bath and no shower backup. A combi also has to be over sized to heat water, making them less efficient when providing central heating.
Mixer from the combi every time.
Electric shower 8.5kW.
Small combi boiler 24kW, others far more.
Electric showers are last resort, only fit when that's all that's possible, or for people who only want to spend the minimum possible and won't be using it themselves.
Electric shower 8.5kW.
Small combi boiler 24kW, others far more.
Electric showers are last resort, only fit when that's all that's possible, or for people who only want to spend the minimum possible and won't be using it themselves.
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My 10.5kw Electric shower is great.
In fact it is more than good enough.
Anything moreso is a pure luxury which you pay for in infrastructure, water and heat costs.
It has distinct advantages over a HW fed solution as well (simpler, more reliable, etc)
In fact it is more than good enough.
Anything moreso is a pure luxury which you pay for in infrastructure, water and heat costs.
It has distinct advantages over a HW fed solution as well (simpler, more reliable, etc)
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I installed mine and I have used it most days for the past 50 years, though now the third iteration of electric shower. Why would anyone not want to use one, they work just fine, especially the more recent higher powered/better controlled models?
Before that I had a large instant gas heater and mixer. Higher rate of flow, but took a good while before it settled to temperature. My electric settles within 5 seconds.
So you have a combi or unvented so could have a mixer shower etc. But you have chosen electric?
If the combi is already present with a suitable mains supply, combi fed mains will give a better shower hands down but it's that famous horses for courses, depends on what an individual is happy with.
To add an electric shower if a combi already present the you need to add the install/cabling costs etc.
Leccy shower great if the combi gives up, until it itself fails of course.
To add an electric shower if a combi already present the you need to add the install/cabling costs etc.
Leccy shower great if the combi gives up, until it itself fails of course.
No, I have a vented system, but could add a pump and a mixer, were I unhappy with what I have - though I am not.
We have a mix: 2 electric, one combi. Worked fine for 26 years in the house.
Mixer to run off the combi every time unless you can have a shower under a dribble ( from electric shower) when the weather gets Baltic. Even the smallest combi will be nearly like a shower from nearly three combined electric showers
20+ Year Old Boiler, Vented and a Fortic Tank in the Loft.
Plumbed Shower on a Bath Mixer a bit poor.
10.5KW Electric on good pressure Mains works very well. Previous 8.5KW was OK. (Electrics were upgraded).
I have used plenty of higher powered Showers and never feel our current Electric is a compromise.
Have used some very pathetic ones though.
Plumbed Shower on a Bath Mixer a bit poor.
10.5KW Electric on good pressure Mains works very well. Previous 8.5KW was OK. (Electrics were upgraded).
I have used plenty of higher powered Showers and never feel our current Electric is a compromise.
Have used some very pathetic ones though.
The incoming public water supply is never 'Baltic', normal variation is around 5C winter to summer. My shower, even now at the coldest part of the year, with incoming water temperature at a minimum, cannot be described as a dribble - it is far from. The exception was one morning last week, when the water pressure was a little lower than normal, but that would also affect a combi mixer too. We occasionally suffer a dip in pressure, quite randomly for a day - which I have never been able to determine the cause of, likewise out supplier. Their best guess has been local farmers spraying lots of water on their fields - but at this time of year?
granted, 8.5kw against 24kw is no contest.
When commissioning boilers for benchmark, I use clamp thermometers so can record incoming cold and hot delivered water temperature. 5- 17 degrees is not unusual winter- summer for cold water.
I also have considerable experience of incoming cold water supplies, yet never have I seen such low temperature as you suggest - remember, these pipes pass deep below ground, where the earth is quite a bit warmer than the ambient air in winter, and cooler in summer. Out of curiosity, I have just checked out CW supply with an immersed lab grade instrument, after a week of fairly low ambient temperatures - it stabilised at 9.3C after running the tap for 1 minute.
Incidently - our electric shower 'crashed' this morning after I pressed the off button. I climbed out hearing a strange noise, which I thought at first was the extract fan. What I hadn't noticed was that the water had continued to run a little, the low output LED was lit and none of the buttons did anything. A quick off, then back on at the isolation switch and all back to normal. That is the third time it has crashed since I installed it.
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