Those plates with extra lugs may be designed to fit into specific boxes for use with dado trunking.
For normal boxes, get different plates.
For normal boxes, get different plates.
Electric socket back boxes
- Thread starter LeadFarmer
- Start date
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Or (assuming you've already bought or acquired the faceplates) hacksaw or cutters will do the job (cutters will work fine as long as those faceplates are softish slightly flexible plastic- if they're the very hard rigid plastic then hacksaw will reduce chance of the things cracking
They look like excel faceplates. The plastic tags fit their own surface boxes. You can use metal flush ones, and if the boxes are not below the surface of the wall a little, snip the plastic tags off. Side cutters and a twisting action. Job done.
I would just add ...
Assuming that they are Euromod modules (which I think they almost certainly are), then you can buy faceplates that match your other fittings (especially the power sockets) - and slot the modules into those. I've always thought those bevelled faceplates look pretty naff.
You'll need to check the depth requirements, as without the extra depth from having the bevelled faceplate move the sockets outwards, you may need a deeper box.
What the manufacturers won't tell you is that any Euromod module should fit any Euromod faceplate (that's the whole idea of the Euromod system, and the LJ6C standard) - they would rather sell you everything and make more profit.
Assuming that they are Euromod modules (which I think they almost certainly are), then you can buy faceplates that match your other fittings (especially the power sockets) - and slot the modules into those. I've always thought those bevelled faceplates look pretty naff.
You'll need to check the depth requirements, as without the extra depth from having the bevelled faceplate move the sockets outwards, you may need a deeper box.
What the manufacturers won't tell you is that any Euromod module should fit any Euromod faceplate (that's the whole idea of the Euromod system, and the LJ6C standard) - they would rather sell you everything and make more profit.
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They don't always fit.
The Excel ones were developed slightly deeper to allow the use of standard 25mm back boxes, including flush, surface and dado. The requirement for structured wiring is 35mm behind I believe.
The Excel ones were developed slightly deeper to allow the use of standard 25mm back boxes, including flush, surface and dado. The requirement for structured wiring is 35mm behind I believe.
That's why I said you need to check the depth requirements. At work I've been using some from Connectix that are really low profile - I reckon those would fit a 25mm box with any plate.
I've been putting 35mm boxes in for the data & AV stuff at home. Would normally use 47mm boxes, but with brick that makes 'kin 'ard bricks seem like soft cheese, there was no way I was going to try and chase that deep.
I've been putting 35mm boxes in for the data & AV stuff at home. Would normally use 47mm boxes, but with brick that makes 'kin 'ard bricks seem like soft cheese, there was no way I was going to try and chase that deep.
So are we saying that 25mm back boxes aren't usually deep enough for ethernet faceplates, but the bevelled type should be ok? They won't really be see as I'm locating them behind the TV etc.
To be able to connect devices to a network would be my best guess.
For wired connection for PS4 console, smart TV etc.I don't need them, but whilst all the plaster has been removed from the living room its an ideal chance to install them.
As it is far superior to any wireless connection. Full stop. No question.
It really depends on the socket modules. Some are really deep, some are quite low profile - you need to check with the modules you are planning to use, or choose modules that will fit the boxes
An alternative is to not use sockets at all, but use a brush strip so you can bring the cables out of the wall in a neat manner. Pros and cons - it's easier when there's a lot of cables (and a mix of types), but it's not as neat and not ideal if using solid core network or coax cable which isn't designed for a lot of flexing.
As an aside, a mate had some brush strips, and when showing some colleagues around they were asking what these brush things were for - there were no cables in at the time. He is a bit of a joker and had them believing that they are for foot tickling - and demonstrated how he could put his toes in. They actually believed him
Here's a comparison of two modules :
On the left is an old module that's been pulled out from somewhere (it was in a deep bezelled faceplate), and a low profile module from Connectix. The left one would not fit a 25mm box without the bezelled faceplate, the one on the right will. I also found, when trying to put one together for another photo, that the one on the left is not a Euromodule - so it won't fit Euromodule faceplates.
On the left is an old module that's been pulled out from somewhere (it was in a deep bezelled faceplate), and a low profile module from Connectix. The left one would not fit a 25mm box without the bezelled faceplate, the one on the right will. I also found, when trying to put one together for another photo, that the one on the left is not a Euromodule - so it won't fit Euromodule faceplates.
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