Electrician completed first fix - issues

The plasterer is going to hate him. The conduit needs to be fixed back into the chases. Usually a few wide head clout nails are all that is needed.

That group of cables at approx 2:49. That's not correct. Once plastered over, there should be something at that point to denote that there are cables hidden under the plaster. If not possible, you/he will need to fashion an earthed and substantial steel plate, to prevent some muppet drilling into the wall theere abd hanging a picture of granny.
 
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Others spend time and install it so that it can be reused and cables if needbe pulled in and out, but tends to only be straight runs, but to be honest would anyone ever need to do so nowadays.
Do you mean, would anyone bother to do it right, or would anyone ever need to change a cable ? If the latter, then I'd counter with "but to be honest would anyone ever need to alter their wiring these days ?"
If your foresight is such that you can decide in advance what cabling you'll need for the next "quite a few" decades then no need to make the wiring maintainable. Personally, I doubt if ANYONE has that level of foresight.
I'd agree with the other comment that it's a real mess and really makes using conduit moot anyway - would have been quicker to just clip the cables in place :whistle:
 
If your foresight is such that you can decide in advance what cabling you'll need for the next "quite a few" decades then no need to make the wiring maintainable. Personally, I doubt if ANYONE has that level of foresight.
Agreed. However, the be realistic, the wiring changes that may be required over "the next quite a few decades" are rarely going to consist of just wanting to run some different cable (or even an additional cable - if it will fit!) to exactly the same place to which a cable currently goes.

As I see it, wiring in (proper) conduit 'for maintainability' only really makes a lot of sense if one contemplates needing to replace just the cables, feeding the same number of accessories in exactly the same locations as at present. Whilst that may have been reasonable in the bygone days of cables with fairly limited life expectancy, now we have PVC cables which are likely to remain OK for very many decades, the potential benefit seems to have somewhat evaporated.

Kind Regards, John
 
I disagree, mostly !
Want an extra socket ? With well done conduit you only need to hack the wall where you are putting the new socket, and don't have to add JBs under the floor. With badly done or no conduit, you either have to add JBs, or hack the wall where you aren't making any changes as well as where you are adding the socket.
Then lights. Standard fit is just the one pendant in the middle of the room. Want to add something ? Well the smallest conduit will take 1mm² 3C+E or (IIRC) 2off T&E so with properly done conduit you could change the single switch for a 2 or 3 gang without hacking the wall. And if it's another ceiling light, then no hacking of the walls.

There is also the matter that having the cable "loose" means more scope for slack. A few months ago I changed the cooker switch for a friend, it had been fitted badly (terminal screwed down on insulation) and the neutral had burned out. Luckily there was JUST enough slack to cut back the damaged bit and still re-connect it - but that isn't always the case.

So yes, you are correct that we don't normally need to replace cables due to age, but putting them in conduit makes changes much easier to do (if done properly).
 
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If people are concerned about future additions or cable replacements, they should use proper round conduit with singles.
Oval plastic tat with T&E shoved inside is rarely of any use after it's installed. Only takes a small kink or a bit of rubble to get in the top and it's totally useless.
Capping is worse.
 
Oval plastic tat with T&E shoved inside is rarely of any use after it's installed. Only takes a small kink or a bit of rubble to get in the top and it's totally useless.
Not my experience. Kinks indicate rough handling and/or poor installation practice.
Capping is worse.
Oh yes :evil:
Just nothing like as bad as nothing at all.
 
Capping is alright for a 3-plate switch drop or any other situation where there’s one cable in the capping. Many a time I’ve been able to tie on and pull back through like that.

ONCE I’ve managed (or in fairness, attempted) to pull a piece of 2.5mm² through when it’s been capped with another (got pinned by a chippy on a refurb :mad:) - must have been nice and flat next to each other.

Other than that, I concur it’s only purpose is to keep the cables nice and flat - and some plasterer protection
 
Doesn't matter how much we pretend, it's a bad job and needs doing correctly.

Capping or conduit makes a superior job. It is there to protect the cable, and may just assist you if a cable needs a little more slack pulling down or some kind of repair in the future.

There shouldn't be big gaps between sections of conduit. Gaps of a few mm are to be expected.

Capping or conduit needs to be at the very least 4mm beyond the surface of the plaster, otherwise it will crack.

As said, it must be nailed back to the brickwork. If not, you risk the plaster cracking, and you cannot expect the plasterer to 'bond' all the conduits to the wall. It's not his job.

Capping is usually shallower and is the preferred choice for new work, conduit is sometimes preferred on chases in old houses to prevent the chases being over-wide.

Insist on capping or conduit. Poor job otherwise.
 
If you really want changeability you want to go for cable tray at ceiling level!
 
If people are concerned about future additions or cable replacements, they should use proper round conduit with singles.
Oval plastic tat with T&E shoved inside is rarely of any use after it's installed. Only takes a small kink or a bit of rubble to get in the top and it's totally useless.
Capping is worse.

I have done numerous repairs and alterations and lighting re-wires thanks to plastic oval conduits and even capping.

Round conduit and singles are not practical, and singles make domestic alterations difficult.
 
Note that if you are going for air tightness, a proper job would be parge coating the chases and then plaster the cable in solidly. Then there's no route for air getting through the blockwork and into the socket boxes.
 
oval conduit can be nipped into place awaiting plastering with 16mm cable clips

It's not often that you can pull through during alterations. But you can in a kitchen or workroom when there is a horizontal row of sockets and switches above the worktop (with no ups and downs) and you want to add one.
 

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