Electrics and a new kitchen - what order and how long?

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Any help/thoughts much appreciated.

I want to fit a new kitchen - and may build the units myself from scratch or buy from ikea and fit them. It all depends on how long the electrics trades work is going to take.

My question is this - how should I plan fitting the new kitchen? We need to get extra sockets fitted (likely to be on a new circuit) and new lighting installed (I know I cannot do this cos of part P). We may get a new electric cooker to replace the old one. We're not moving plumbing.

Should I remove all the existing units for the new circuit to be fitted, or could it be fitted with the existing units in place? Will the electrician need to come back to fit the actual sockets (I want to put a metal splashback above the units and presumably I'll need to cut holes for the sockets to fit through. Does using metal for the splashback mean extra earthing is required?

Is there a particular order that this job should be done in?

Also, our washing machine sits between an internal door and the sink (it's under the draining board) - where should the socket for its plug be fitted? (Currently it's plugged into an extension cord which is not ideal but what we inherited).

thanks very much for any thoughts on either or both questions
 
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We are renovating a house to sell and have looked into the new kitchen thing, wickes have a great range to buy off the shelf (flat pack) I built the units (with ease) and my husband fitted them, easy and value for money, ten unts cost about £350!! (you do pay extra for cornice etc though,

dont know if this is of help!!
 
Miele do excellent fitted kitchens and their after service and attention to detail is second to none. You can also get good deals on appliance packs where you buy more than one single appliance.

Current promotions are 10 year parts and labour guarantee on selected washing machines or 5 year parts and labour on tumble dryers and free Le Creuset saucepan set worth £150 with any induction electric hob.


http://www.miele.co.uk/Kitchens/

http://www.miele.co.uk/Default.aspx
 
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Best method would be for you to remove any old units and then get sparkies to do the first fix.
Once they've done all the first fixing then you get your units fitted, then they come along and second fix.

Is there any wall space above the worktop where the washing machine will be that isn't above the sink?

Earthing the metal splashback would definatley be good practice
 
damson said:
It all depends on how long the electrics trades work is going to take.

Compared to the whole job, the electrics will be done in ther blink of an eye! One-to-two days, depending on what you actually want.

But there's the difficult part - you actually have to make your decisions first.

Plan your layout, then get several local sparks to quote. Take advice from them.
 
when cutting the holes for the sockets in the splashback, make a tab and bend it into the hole for an earth screw and wire to be attatched to...
 
wow thanks everyone - all really helpful advice - will definitely check out wickes and miele.

great til ColJack for the earthing

Widdler, there's about 10 cm of wall space between the door and the draining board for the sink - could we maybe fit the socket there?

thanks again!
 
Building Regs guidance is minimum 300mm between accessories & edge of hob or sink unit.
 
hi securespark - does that mean that the socket will have to sit 30mm above the draining board and as near to the door frame as possible or does it mean it just can't go there at all as there's not enough distance (only 10cm to the edge of the draining board)? The door is to the left of the sink btw.

thanks for any further thoughts!
 
good point... is that 300mm straight or diagonal??

If I fit my sockets at 450 above the worktop then the cord is going to reach a lot less accross the worktop than if I mount them at 100mm above the worktop..
 
hi everyone - any thoughts on the location of the socket for my washing machine - I understand it has to be above the counter - but could I actually get the flex for the washing machine extended and run under the floor boards to the other side of the door - where it would be at least 30cm from the sink?????

help!
 
Sorry - and another question - do building regs also dictate/recommend the amount of work surface either side of the cooker? In the current lay out the cooker is at the end of a run of units (the opened door just misses it when it is opened back against the wall). The wall against which the cooker sits is at right angles to the wall with the door, so that in fact the door cannot lay full flat against its wall but remains at 90 degrees. ...

(hope that all makes sense)

thanks for any further help!
 
ColJack said:
good point... is that 300mm straight or diagonal??

If I fit my sockets at 450 above the worktop then the cord is going to reach a lot less accross the worktop than if I mount them at 100mm above the worktop..

Don't know. But the green IEE guide to BR's will tell you.
 
hi securespark

is the green IEE guide to BR a book / manual I can buy or something available on the web? Can you point me in the right direction? thanks and sorry to ask so many questions!
 

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