Engineered oak floor planks crowning

[Wilson78]

The subfloor is concrete
B&Q told customer to lay and leave a expansion gap.
No need to glue planks, because they'll just be good little planks & NOT bloody move ehh
So he calls me, I ask for the sticky rubber underlay.
I get told .."NO...we've already bought the foil backed underlay
So I get him to buy the decent floor screed glue.( I forget the name)
Anyway I fast notice that's gonna take 10 tubs after i use 1.
So I glue every plank in place on tongues, so it's glued & floating .
I leave a gap around room.
But initially I screw the first row along the wall under where the skirting will go.
As I was fitting the floor alone, it made sense because the planks were slipping around.
So floors finished ..then few months pass and at the hall door the planks are crowning.
I decide to relieve the expansion around the side I screwed and find some screws that were forgotten about and left in.
I remove the screws and the floor lowers.
But I could feel a little bounce at door area.
Now 6 months later, I get told the door isn't shutting .
The floor has crowned.
My thoughts were to remove skirting where I decide.
Check any fowling of floor to wall & sort.
But am I missing summit?
Because of concrete sub floor I didn't secure down.
But I'm thinking should I take the stress out of the floor by doing my initial expansion check etc, then screw down planks say every 1m2 & plug with oak plugs or drill plug and screw then fill with 2 part oak filler?
Some advice would be gratefully received

 

[blup]

Use a decent click lock system on underlay with expansion gap. No need for gluing and tne problems it brings. How does screwing down the boards relieve stress, it creates the conditions for it.

 

[dazlight]

What wood is it ?

 

[johnny2007]

I bet the house is damp...

 

[big-all]

I bet the house is damp...

yes my thought cupping up as underneath expands from floor damp although crowning suggests room damper than below but off course can be a mixture

never ever screwed an edge down [this suggests cupping]or even heard it as an action on a floating floor, but i am prepaired to learn new tricks "as we are all still learning "

 

[Koolpc]

Moisture in the concrete floor?

 

[Wilson78]

What wood is it ?

Solid Oak engineered t&g planks
Each pack contains 4 or 5 different lengths.
Biggest issue maybe 1200mm, smallest is 300 maybe.
No locking system for t&G
So glueing was only option, as we had a concrete subfloor

 

[Wilson78]

I bet the house is damp...

I said that from start.
So I made sure their foil backed underlay was installed perfectly.
I wanted the rolls of matting that peels away leaving a semi sticky face
The boards wouldn't move using that.
But NO .They wouldn't change it .
As B& Q said theirs was fine ffs

 

[Wilson78]

Moisture in the concrete floor?

Cheers but I installed the foil underlay myself and it came up the edges also.
Maybe one area could be a problem ...at the door leading to the hall.
The floor stops here & a door bar separates rooms.
That edge could be pulling moisture I guess

 

[Wilson78]

yes my thought cupping up as underneath expands from floor damp although crowning suggests room damper than below but off course can be a mixture

never ever screwed an edge down [this suggests cupping]or even heard it as an action on a floating floor, but i am prepaired to learn new tricks "as we are all still learning "

Yes great comment

 

[Wilson78]

It's getting worse.
So all i can do is remove a skirting board along one side of the room and check there's a expansion gap

 

[Koolpc]

I would be removing all the skirting and checking the whole perimeter.

 

[johnny2007]

I said that from start.
So I made sure their foil backed underlay was installed perfectly.
I wanted the rolls of matting that peels away leaving a semi sticky face
The boards wouldn't move using that.
But NO .They wouldn't change it .
As B& Q said theirs was fine ffs

Damp is not only on the subfloor, it's in the air and wood reacts to it.

 

[aveatry]

But initially I screw the first row along the wall under where the skirting will go.
As I was fitting the floor alone, it made sense because the planks were slipping around.

You use wedges at the perimeter for this.

But I'm thinking should I take the stress out of the floor by doing my initial expansion check etc, then screw down planks say every 1m2 & plug with oak plugs or drill plug and screw then fill with 2 part oak filler?

No its supposed to be floating

Solid Oak engineered t&g planks

Confused as solid Oak is that - solid and engineered Oak is not solid - it has a ply backing and a top layer of oak.

No locking system for t&G
So glueing was only option, as we had a concrete subfloor

That is how an engineered oak floor is supposed to be done.

And I would second the "check all of the gaps all around.

OK this bit

But initially I screw the first row along the wall under where the skirting will go.
As I was fitting the floor alone, it made sense because the planks were slipping around.
So floors finished ..then few months pass and at the hall door the planks are crowning.
I decide to relieve the expansion around the side I screwed and find some screws that were forgotten about and left in.

Could it be that the whole floor has expanded and pushed itself away from this screwed down point and so now it is touching at other places that previously you left gaps at.