Thinking about it again, diving straight through the wall with the toilet waste will mean it will be too high to connect the shower/sink waste. You may end up with a separate stack connection for the shower/sink or run the w/c outlet through a bend either inside or outside rather than straight so you can tee into it; it will need some further thought once you have a decent scale drawing.If I was not to use separate waste runs to the mail stack how would I go about connecting them, would they need to be fed into the horizontal w/c pipe?
Afraid not.Thanks for that, I just thought an opening window would suffice!
Older properties (such as mine) weren’t built with earthed lighting circuits; I don’t know when earthing became mandatory but yours will almost certainly be OK. A 20 year old consumer unit may give problems as it probably won’t comply with current regulations & may have to be changed/upgraded to a modern breaker/RCD unit. I would advise you consult a qualified sparky for advice early on as you may find they wont connect you new bathroom circuits into the current consumer unit. My property is 40 years old & I ended up having to have a new consumer unit, earth bonding & a rewire of most of the lighting circuits; entirely necessary but my wallet said ouch!Im unsure how old the consumer unit is. The master bedroom (where the ensuite is being added) was built in the 80s, so the wiring is probably over 20 years old.
No.The ensuite will be built ajoining an original external wall on one side (brick/block cavity that was originally the outside of the house). I assume then I don’t have to sound insulate this section of wall (behind which is a bedroom)?
If it’s just the walls forming the en-suit inside you bedroom then you don’t have sound insulate (or any wall with a door in it) but if you want to that’s fine. If sound insulation was required, MR board won’t meet the spec. but as it’s not then MR is good. Use 12mm square edge boards not taper edge, you can get them but may have to search around a bit. Its best not to plaster the boards where you’re tiling just stick the tiles straight onto the boards; MR will need priming. Also if you want to plaster MR board, it must be primed first but if you’re using a spread he should know that anyway.I was planning on using soundblock on the outside of the studs (bedroom side) and moister resistant plasterboard on the inside (with aqua panel for the shower enclosure) and then sound insulate the studs.
Knauf Aquapanel is good for the shower enclosure but fill & tape the joins. Knauf do a purpose made sealer but some use Silicone; not much will stick to silicone (including tile adhesive) so I don’t use it here; be careful if you decide to, don’t get it all over the face of the board. Make sure joints in the Aquapanel don’t coincide with any grout lines in the tiles for obvious reasons. Run the Aquapanel just outside the shower enclosure & extend the tiles over where it joins the PB. I plaster before tiling & just waste the skim slightly into the tiled areas so you’re left with a nicely plastered wall after tiling.