Ensuring laminate floors strips balance out.

[Northbeach]

Quick break - have completed the laying of the underlay in the living room and cut the door frames. Does the underlay have to be millimetre perfect? Hope not as it's a pain to measure, cut and lay into place. Have used the odd bit of gaffer tape over certain edges and seams.

Unfortunately it looks like I'm going to run out when it comes to the small hallway - it's only 1.5m by 1.5m (ish) but it appears I only have enough underlay to cover half the floor!!! Dodgy calculations from sheds-to-go I say.
It's almost 50 quid for this underlay and I only need a small amout to complete the job - any suggestion? Grab some cheap polythene and rubber/foam underlay? Not entirely happy .

cheers.

 

[WoodYouLike]

Didn't you tell the hallway had floorboards (and not concrete?)

Rule of thumb: NEVER use dpm on existing floorboards.
Simple foam underlayment will do.

p.s get back to shed-to-go and complain about their porfessional advice on calculating the materials you need!

 

[Northbeach]

a: what's DPM - double insulation - foam/foil?
b: christ - too late - the living room and hall have existing floorboards...the underlay is down and cost almost £100 - please tell me it's not that bad...
i can grab some foam underlay to comlpete the job then.

Too be honest, the existing floorboards let an awful amount of draft up through them - almost like a stream of air you felt occasionally...

 

[WoodYouLike]

Sorry, I had the impression only the hallway had floorboards, otherwise I would have told you before.
Sheds-to-go, didn't they ask you what kind of underfloor you had??

DPM is damp proof membrane (plastic, silver etc) to prevent moisture from conrete/screed floors getting into the wood. Using dpm on existing floorboards can restrict the air-flow from underneath the floorboards for ventilation and can (worste-case-scenario) cause condensation on the existing floorboards.
That's why we never use dpm on floorboards or other sheetmaterial, just to be on the safe-side.
Just keep an eye on things, don't get to worried, specially if your existing floorboards were stable and you didn't had any moist problems before.

Grab some foam underlayment to finish the job in the hallway.

 

[Northbeach]

No they didn't. One of those places were training never comes into the equation unfortunately.
Ah, well. It's down now. No problems with moisture so fingers crossed.
Hopefully I can pick some up locally as the car is in Norfolk this weekend!

..and I've not even started no the floorboards yet!

Thanks for you advice again!

 

[Northbeach]

Had to walk a couple of miles to get the darned foam in the end (poor me eh?). Completed the underlay before 'having to see a friend for a drink in town' - I was coerced - honest!

Have now started laying the floor - quick observation: Having cut the first board in half (so it balances out on the other end and the fireplace) how would you remedy the problem whereby the cut plank was not entirely straight (jigsaws tend to vear off the line if you don't watch them) - I'm thinking that this may start to slant the additional rows...though I guess once you get to the 2nd row you could adjust the first line somewhat (taking the spacers away if neccesary)?

WYL - not posted my mail address yet, but I will - I won't really know what requirements I need till I've finished laying the floor.

Many thanks.

 

[Northbeach]

hmmm...started to lay the second row (part laying the first) and have noticed it is massively skewed. over an inch out...now is it best to go and cut the first row lengthways at an angle or cut the top into shape the tops of the subsequent rows?? I knew there would be a spanner...and this is it

 

[Northbeach]

i.e. do I cut the first long row lengthways or the do I cut the tops off the subsequent rows - doing the latter will mean more cutting but means the boards look straighter to the eye - they appear to be more parallel is what I'm trying to say in this panicked state (missus is driving back was we speak and I'm guessing she would rather like it finished )...

 

[Northbeach]

Day 2 in the Northbeach House...this is almost turning into a blog - sorry!

I've gone along the lines of adjusting the tops of the subsequent rows now and is working ok.
However, the first row has somehow developed a gap in parts (up to 20mm). Not too bad as the sofa will hide this wall...but I try to be a perfectionist. What's the best way of hiding this gap - thicker skirting? Jut the skirting out a little further? Use your cork stripping?

 

[WoodYouLike]

One way to solve cutting gaps (jigsaws can be awkward, we know, that's why we use a plunch circular saw - but that's because we do this for a living ) is to install flat beading all around (i.e. pinned to floor where it meets the skirting, normally to cover expansion gaps when you don't remove or can't go under skirtingboards) to create neat finish.

Hope this helps

 

[Northbeach]

Yes - that might be handy - I'll look into that when the new skirting is up.
Another problem I've found - I've cut the boards where they meet the doorway and under the architrave (have cut them shaped up to where they will meet the 'threshold ' and the odd shaped arhcitrave itself).
Trouble is, once you've slid the board under the archi, I cannot get the angle correct for clicking the boards into place - common problem?
I managed one side (somehow???) but the other I'll leave for the time being.

cheers.

 

[WoodYouLike]

Another problem I've found -...
Trouble is, once you've slid the board under the archi, I cannot get the angle correct for clicking the boards into place - common problem?

Yep, that's the trouble with new-fashion click-systems. The only value they add is to the price
You have to cut the click-bit of the board before last to get it in properly. Use PVAC glue in the remaining bit of groove to stick it together.

Any pictures of the result when (if) you finish?

 

[Northbeach]

Finally finished - the living room at least (the hall can wait - it's only small anyhow).
An experience I must admit! Actually looks good and the missus is very impressed (as are the little girls who enjoy the fact they can slide all over it!). Completed it by around 8:30 this evening - full weekend at it (cockily thought I'd have it all done in a day...that was on friday!).

Yep, that's the trouble with new-fashion click-systems. The only value they add is to the price
You have to cut the click-bit of the board before last to get it in properly. Use PVAC glue in the remaining bit of groove to stick it together.

The click bit on the width of the 2nd to last board or the click bit (where you have to push it at a certain angle)? In the end I fed it through from the hall and reversed the laying of the boards for just that one row (genius eh ). Worked ok...however, I can cover up any gaps using either skirting/cork/flat beading but around the architrave (slight gaps unfortunately due to the aforementioned problems) I'm at a loss at what to use - oak coloured silicone for laminates perhaps????

But thankyou very much WYL - your advice and hints have helped me immensely.
Scanner is down at the moment but I could snap a shot from my dv cam (not the greatest quality for stills).

I'll let you know about the corking also (and drop my add off to you).
I may need some to fit in the skirting across the fireplace - the brickwork is 'rustic' and ramshackle - a straight piece of skirting will leave a gap in the centre of about an inch - though about adding concrete then silicone, but I think cork might look the part (hard to explain - I should perhaps snap that also).

Day finished - little knackered...time for slumber!

 

[HandyJon]

Trouble is, once you've slid the board under the archi, I cannot get the angle correct for clicking the boards into place - common problem?

One technique I use sometimes is to click the board into place to one side of architrave and then slowly slide it sideways under the arch, gently tapping with a hammer against a waste piece.

 

[Northbeach]

Aye good idea...one worked out ok but the others unfortunately have a bit of a gap. The beading/skirting will work out ok around the walls but I'm at a loss as to the best method I should be using for these architrave/door frame gaps? The only thing I can think of is flat beading (as advised by WYL - mail address on the way!!), cork or tan coloured silicone - any advice?