Euro Cylinder Issue

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I have a composite front door with a Euro cylinder lock & pad handle. So when unlocking, the first turn of the key unlocks & then opens the latch. Very occasionally the key turns continually in the cylinder. Is this likely to be the Euro cylinder or the lock mechanism?

I've removed the cylinder & can't recreate the issue by holding the actuator/paddle/thingy but as I said, it's very intermittent anyway.
 
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I’ve had that twice in the composite door we have over the last 18 years. Both times, replacing the Euro cylinder cured it.
 
Interesting. I've never experienced it before in any of the Euro cylinders I've had. I've spun the cylinder around when refitting it to see if it helps. Meanwhile I must remember to keep a back door key with me in case it fails completely!
 
We never leave keys in Eurocylinders as unless the key is correctly lined up and pulled out a bit on the inside, you can never get a key in and open them otherwise. We also keep a spare patio door key in a key safe, hidden in outer garden
 
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If your backdoor is a euro cylinder as well I would get a new pair ‘keyed alike’.

I’ve just done ours with the Avocet ABS locks, 3 locks, 7 keys, £162 and 10 minutes to fit them.
 
Four year bump! It hasn't got any worse but I'd still like to sort it.

So now I know that the lock mechanism is called a gearbox & that's presumably where the issue lies. The lock is a Winkhaus & I'm waiting on them to try to ID. Apparently they prefer measurement & images to simply stamping a model number on the faceplate...

Logic suggests one of two scenarios.

The cyclinder cam is slightly too short.
Whatever it actuates in the gearbox is slightly misaligned.

There is a minimal gap between the cam & the cylinder body, so that suggests the latter. Is there anyone here who knows what to check?
 
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Not sure if you can change just the gearbox on Winkhaus mechanisms, from memory they're riveted on, check whether there's any small torx screws in the faceplate usually top, middle and bottom around the latch and deadbolt area.

And from my memories memory being a composite door mechanism it'll probably only have 2 hooks, quite possibly be a 20mm faceplate with radiused ends , if ordered a new mechanism be sure to order the correct hand, left or right, the latch might be reversible but the hooks aren't and are tapered making the whole mechanism handed
 
Not sure if you can change just the gearbox on Winkhaus mechanisms, from memory they're riveted on, check whether there's any small torx screws in the faceplate usually top, middle and bottom around the latch and deadbolt area.

And from my memories memory being a composite door mechanism it'll probably only have 2 hooks, quite possibly be a 20mm faceplate with radiused ends , if ordered a new mechanism be sure to order the correct hand, left or right, the latch might be reversible but the hooks aren't and are tapered making the whole mechanism handed
Thanks, it is indeed 20mm radiused with two hooks. No screws but YouTube seems to suggest the rivets can be drilled & replaced.
 

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