I don't want to be 'normal' ever. It's boring.
Everything has to be 13 Amp??!!
- Thread starter StuDH
- Start date
I don't want to be 'normal' ever. It's boring.
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i really find it stupid when 1/3/5/10/13/15 ARE AVALABel to give THE "best protection " why are they not used
why jump from 3 to 13 it makes no sense
i always slightly under size then up if it blows more than once a year
why jump from 3 to 13 it makes no sense
i always slightly under size then up if it blows more than once a year
Well - In general household use there aren't that many different sized flexes in use.
Small items and lights will have 6A flex (no derating) so 3A is fine, (5A will also do but most people won't have any).
The next step up will be appliances with 13A flex.
Small items and lights will have 6A flex (no derating) so 3A is fine, (5A will also do but most people won't have any).
The next step up will be appliances with 13A flex.
Thanks for all the replies.
I only achieved a 15th Edition Certificate. I'm retired now, but am aware that when someone who's 'near to the trade', gets involved, then you guys have trouble!
I've had complete Dickeheads lecture me on Electrical Regulation, when knowing nothing about Electrical Safety.
Cheers, Stu.
I only achieved a 15th Edition Certificate. I'm retired now, but am aware that when someone who's 'near to the trade', gets involved, then you guys have trouble!
I've had complete Dickeheads lecture me on Electrical Regulation, when knowing nothing about Electrical Safety.
Cheers, Stu.
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ok an example
650w microwave with 3 amp fuse goes wrong not a dead short but severe arcing the fuse will blow in a short time
same scenario with a 13 amp fuse drawing approaching 20 amps for a short while is going to cause a lot more damage unessiserily
A 650W microwave will not run on a 3A fuse..
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230 x3= 730w
yes i understand iff the output is 650w the input will be nearer 900-1000w
i must admit over the 15 or so years i had it did blow 2 or 3 fuses
as you know you have to vastly overload a fuse for it to blow or run it fairly constantly at around 25% over to blow
Exactly. Yes, you can put a 3A fuse in, but depending on the design the fuse might instantly blow or it might blow fairly rapidly. The constant overcurrent will weaken it, and the inrush surge will kill it.
You don't use a 3A fuse for a device with a 4A+ input requirement..
you certainly wouldn't design a circuit like that
but we are talking about the safety device here if you can match the device closer to the operating characteristics off the fuse you have a win win situation as a 3 amp mains fuse blowing has no operating dangers like exploding and causing damage
but we are talking about the safety device here if you can match the device closer to the operating characteristics off the fuse you have a win win situation as a 3 amp mains fuse blowing has no operating dangers like exploding and causing damage
Uhm, neither does a 13A fuse blowing due to cable damage. The appliance is fused internally. Please do keep up.
I don't consider random fuse failures to be a 'win win' situation.
Circuit design entails having a large enough cable to carry the load demanded and the cable protected by a device rated equal to or higher than the load but lower than the maximum current carrying capacity of the cable
Other than this there is no relationship between the load and the fuse.
There could be a 60W lamp on the end of a 10mm² cable.
No one would expect a ¼A device to be fitted.
As your microwave was presumably supplied with a flex and moulded plug fitted with a 13A fuse then a lower rated fuse is not required.
Either, just for the sake of it or because the appliance only draws 4A.
If, as you believe, the appliance itself should be protected by a lower rated fuse then the manufacturer would/should have fitted a fuse in the appliance.
ok can i ask a question
i consider my choice off using as small a fuse as possible as the safest option
i have never ever noted any damage or overheating smells whilst running any item or changing a blown fuse
in other words everything worked and appeared normal
can anybody tell me what i am doing is other than sensible and safe and why
i am quite happy to be shot down in flames as i am still learning
thank you for your responses
i consider my choice off using as small a fuse as possible as the safest option
i have never ever noted any damage or overheating smells whilst running any item or changing a blown fuse
in other words everything worked and appeared normal
can anybody tell me what i am doing is other than sensible and safe and why
i am quite happy to be shot down in flames as i am still learning
thank you for your responses
That's because you are thinking that the fuse is there to protect the appliance.
It is not. It is there to protect the cable.
The manufacturer will fit the appropriate cable and plug/fuse for the appliance - e.g. 13A fuse, 16A cable (talking about household appliances with fitted flex and moulded plugs).
Should the appliance be less than 690W then because of cost saving the manufacturer will use smaller cable - e.g. 3A fuse, 6A cable.
Here 5A would do equally well but only 3A and 13A are fitted.
As said, should the appliance need more protection then an internal small fuse will be included.
Well, you wouldn't - the fuse blew.
Apart from the fuse blowing - because it was too small (if that's what you mean).
It is unnecessary.
Had you used 13A fuse you may never have had to change one.
That is unless you have had fixed loads causing overloads.
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