Excessive electricity consumption 3 Bed House.

[JohnW2]

Except that in the US a lot is used in the summer for air conditioning.

True, and presumably increasingly so the further south one goes.

It's hardly worth having a.c. in a car here.

Again very true - just as with 'convertibles'. However, in context, the figure's we're talking about (at least, the ones I'm talking about!) relate only to energy consumption of the 'home', not the 'household' (i.e. they don't include vehicle energy consumption).

Kind Regards, John

 

[Porque223]

Except that in the US a lot is used in the summer for air conditioning.

It's hardly worth having a.c. in a car here.

Yes, I was in Portsmouth once and the rented car radio said it would be "extremely warm" today.
75F!

 

[EFLImpudence]

and Portsmouth is the deep south.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Climate-wise, I presume that the UK equates to the more northern parts of the US.

I think not.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It's hardly worth having a.c. in a car here.

Ask anybody who has A/C in their car if they would like to go back to not having it.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Ask anybody who has A/C in their car if they would like to go back to not having it.

He said he's not fussed although a balmy 57° is forecast for tomorrow.

 

[JohnW2]

Climate-wise, I presume that the UK equates to the more northern parts of the US.

I think not.

Well, it sure don't equate to the 'more southern parts' of the US! What are you suggesting? Do you want me to say 'mid'?

Kind Regards, John

 

[JBR]

It's hardly worth having a.c. in a car here.

Ask anybody who has A/C in their car if they would like to go back to not having it.

I have. However, it packed up a couple of weeks ago. I was going to have it fixed but I'm not sure it will be worth it with the weather we're having.

 

[Wontdothatagain]

My parents had a faulty meter. They proved it by the amount of usage over a year compared to each of the previous 30 years. A new meter was fitted by their supplier, and they were re-inbursed the overcharged units. I don't remember them saying anything about being charged for the check.

I would expect/hope that customers wouldn't be charged for the check (or, at least, would be reimbursed if they had initially been charged) if the check revealed that the meter was faulty. I guess the problem is that large numbers of people probably wrongly accuse meters of being faulty (hence resulting in overcharging), in which cases it may be unreasonable for the companies to be expected to pay for all those 'unnecessary' checks. It's not all that different from warranties - if a product is returned, or a call-out arranged, in relation to a product which is found to be non-faulty (or misused by the customer), the T&C of the warranty will often allow a charge to be levied.

Kind Regards, John

All the suppliers that i fit meters for will advise that they will fit a check meter and if the existing meter is found to be correct a charge will be made, NPower = 65.00, SSE 87.00, BGas 102.00. They are the only 3 i know of.

If the meter is found to be faulty, a new meter is fitted and a refund is issued and you are not charged for the check meter.

I do have a formular for checking a meter some where, it is by no means acurate but will give a result to within about 3%. I will try and dig it out.

 

[JohnW2]

All the suppliers that i fit meters for will advise that they will fit a check meter and if the existing meter is found to be correct a charge will be made, ....If the meter is found to be faulty, a new meter is fitted and a refund is issued and you are not charged for the check meter.

So, exactly as I suggested?

I do have a formular for checking a meter some where, it is by no means acurate but will give a result to within about 3%. I will try and dig it out.

A formula to check a meter? based on what??

Kind Regards, John

 

[Wontdothatagain]

This is a very basic test and is by no means acurate but will give a figure to within 3.5% slow and 2.5% fast.

Assume a phase voltage of 230V
Calculation for actual KW= Voltage X Currant / 1000

Disconnect all loads on the instalation
Plug in and switch on a 2KW heater
Using a clamp type amp meter, measure the current in the line cable from the meter to the fuse board (should be 8.7A)

Formular for measured KW= 3600 X N / K x t
Where N= number of pules or turns of the wheel
K= meter constant
t= time taken in seconds
3600= seconds in 1 hour

Actual KW
V X I / 1000 = 230 X 8.7 / 1000 = 2001 / 1000 = 2KW

For the next part, you will need to find the constant of the meter, this will normaly be either 600 or 1000 but may be different on older meters, either way it should be marked on the manufactures plate.

Measured KW
With the load still connected, count a pre determined amount of pulses or turns of the meter, discount the first pulse/turn and at the same time, record the time taken to record these pulses/turns. 10 is usualy enougth.

For the following, i will asume that the meter constant is 1000 and the time taken was 18.2 seconds.

measured KW= 3600 X N / K x I = 3600 x 10 / 1000 x 18.2 = 36000/ 18200 = 1.98 KW

% Error = Actual KW - Measured KW x 100 / Actual KW = 2 - 1.98 x 100 / 2 = 0.01 x 100 / 2 = 1% fast

 

[JohnW2]

This is a very basic test and is by no means acurate but will give a figure to within 3.5% slow and 2.5% fast. Assume a phase voltage of 230V Calculation for actual KW= Voltage X Currant / 1000

Is that just an example? You presumably aren't suggesting that everyone should assume a phase voltage of 230V, are you? If you did that in my house, a perfectly accurate meter would appear to be over-reading by about 6.5%, since my supply voltage is very rarely below 245V. To get anything approaching accuracy, the voltage used for the calculation needs to be the actual supply voltage for the installation concerned.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Well, it sure don't equate to the 'more southern parts' of the US! What are you suggesting? Do you want me to say 'mid'?

No - I want you to go and amble about in Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, N & S Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan etc in the winter wearing your existing winter clothing.

You might also like to compare and contrast the extent to which you could work outside in the summer, as well as winter, compared to here.

Let us know how you get on.

 

[JohnW2]

Well, it sure don't equate to the 'more southern parts' of the US! What are you suggesting? Do you want me to say 'mid'?

No - I want you to go and amble about in Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, N & S Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Michigan etc in the winter wearing your existing winter clothing.

Well, with the exception of Wyoming and South Dakota (which are not far off), all those states you list are not just "the more northern states of the US" but, rather "the most northern states of the US"!

You must be getting bored - hadn't you noticed that there are quite a few electrical discussions around that you could add to if you wanted?

KInd Regards, John

 

[GRBASF]

Thank you to all contributors.

I have tried to isolate the offending "Drain" by checking the meter readings overnight after I have switched off the appliances still normally operating, i.e. The Fridge/Freezer in the kitchen, the Freezer in the Garage, the Security Light, The House Alarm system and still getting 4 Units of electricity consumed!

A monitor if purchased would be useful, but surely does not solve my immediate problem which is costing me more than it should be, day by day. I have been in the habit of checking my dual fuel meter readings week by week and the present consumption when compared year on year for electricity sticks out like a sore thumb!

I will try to switch off all electricity overnight, but reluctant to do so as all electric clocks in the house will, of course, be effected.

I have contacted an Electrician but he seems this is an unusual request from a client and he seems to be as puzzled as I am on the phone last week.

Any further help - out there?

GRBASF