How do you deduce that from that label?This appears to be a 24mm ‘Low E’, argon-filled
How do you deduce that from that label?This appears to be a 24mm ‘Low E’, argon-filled
Be very wary of builders and inspectors in a close relationship.
there is U value 1.6, unrated for g value, air filled
No the council won't deal with a private job.can't you ask the local council building inspector to come and inspect? Or is it too late for that?
builder tends to ignore me because I am female and ask difficult questions
I wish now I'd used an architect
why did you think he was uselessreally wish we'd had someone to help but the architect who drew up the plans was pretty useless really - if we'd liked him we'd have used him.
- whyThe builder's private BC company says the extension isn't exempt but I think they're pretty poor from our chat
We need both Permitted dev and building regs approval. I applied for the permitted dev
No architect except for initial plans
Who proposed the foundation detailsLocal council have given permitted dev approval and viewed the site just to check the foundations were as proposed - they aren't interested in the building control aspect because another company is due to certify it
the builder is definitely responsible for building control and he appointed a private company at the outset to advise him and provide the certificate at the end
Why were the local council inspecting foundations if they weren't doing the building control
I think you're right about a full plans submission - and your other points - but I didn't know about the options when I started and did what various "experts" suggested. In fact - how does a normal person find out the different ways to go about building an extension? I used an architect, a builder, building control and the internet.
why did you think he was useless
- why
Who proposed the foundation details
Some dodgey statements above but what was the architect employed to do If it is permitted development you don't need planning approval
Why were the local council inspecting foundations if they weren't doing the building control
It isn't the job of the building control company to advise the builder on construction to comply with building regs i.e. the design.
Is the builder doing the work under a Building Notice.
This is a good example in my opinion why it is best to apply for building regulations approval under a Full Plans Submission, you then have approved drawings before work starts on site . Maybe it isn't too late to bring an architect or architectural technician in to help sort it all out .
Have you got his number?Architect: took 9 months to come up with a "visualisation" for £3K
Actual questions still - last message was to try to clear up confusion I caused:
1. Realistically, what type of glass would help keep the room cooler in summer and warmer in winter?
2. Is there any requirement on solar transmittance for the windows? (We have plain, air-filled double glazing with toughened glass - does it meet regs?).
3. Do we need exterior doors on the inside wall of the extension (builder has suddenly suggested this)
4. Could we help with 1 by specifying good U values and low e glass for the interior doors.
I think if we put in the right interior doors we can prevent adverse effects on the original building but may not have year-round use of the room.
Thanks again for everyone's wisdom, sorry for writing so much,
Mashie
ery vague about low e glass - it's "quite new" and they think maybe toughened glass is automatically low e
eg they stuffed up the levels inside and out in 6 different ways so the one room has 3 different step heights for 3 different doors on two walls - this is where I feel a decent architect would have helped
Is this for other work?They are at the point of booking a final inspection
Having read the above new posts from you and in addition to the earlier ones, I would say youve been unfortunate in being badly advised by both Architect, private inspector and builder.
1 In general I specify solar control neutral which has self clean for the roof external pane and saint gobain planitherm total soft coat for inner pane of a double glazed unit. Warm edge spacer bar and argon gas fill.
Doors and windows: soft coat low e, warm edge spacer bar, argon gas fill -which will achieve an A window energy rating and a centre pane value of about 1.1 and a whole unit value of around 1.6
Notice the solar heat reflectance:
https://www.tuffxglass.co.uk/products/ambi-neutral/
Generally solar control glass is only used in the roof, but can be used in side frames if sun is a real issue -bear in mind the glass is tinted to achieve the solar reduction,
I would always have an electric opening vent in the roof -heat rises and gets trapped, a roof vent allows that hot air to be released.
If you sunroom is built with the right materials it shouldnt get too hot, nor make adjacent rooms hot.
2. No
3. Not if the sunroom is under regs -it should either comp,y with part L or gave a SAPS test.
4. Yes, but try and sort out the sunroom first
So your sunroom: is the room south facing and what windows, doors, roof lantern / velux does it have
Ive built loads of orangeries, none get too hot -but I always advise on roof lantern size etc etc during the design stage.
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