External cold feed

[dilalio]

Have to run new cold mains from plant room to kitchen for potable water at kitchen sink.
Previously the kitchen was used as a utility room and only had "grey" water supply to cold at sink.
Now been converted to kitchen and also another kitchen backing on to it and has to have potable water.

It would look better if I could run new cold feed externally for about 3 metres, under a canopy and down wall, outside, to enter behind plinths and up through sink carcass.

Anyone know of a suitable insulated ducting system that would prevent freezing in cold months?

I know about Insuduct but this is used mainly for 1 or 2, 32mm mdpe mains pipes and seems a bit oversized for this application. I only need something for 15mm run and would prefer to use a proprietary system rather than construct something stuffed with insulation.

Cheers.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Can you go up and over and just protect under normal circumstances? What about digging a trench and using 20mm mdpe?

 

[dilalio]

Can you go up and over and just protect under normal circumstances? What about digging a trench and using 20mm mdpe?

It's not a domestic setup mate.
It's a trust site for assisted living.
Bit like a centerparcs for those needing 24hr care but some independence.
The kitchens have been fully fitted and tiled etc, single storey building with vaulted ceilings so no loft space.
Full patio and landscaping outside, where I would be going external.

There's a short projection canopy running all the way across the back wall where I'd run the feed (above back door and window) then down wall and in. Canopy would offer some protection from frost but would like to make it all look modular and fully protected.

I might give insuduct a call and see if they know of a product.

Cheers.

 

[Madrab]

Insuduct do one called Shallowduct, we used it to run an external supply along a 4m external wall where breaking ground wasn't an option. You can get it in white square ducting that is then just clipped to the wall. It is for 32/25mm as you suggest but I guess some cheaper 15mm insulation to increase it to fit may work

That being said, could probably use armaflex tuff in some square rainwater downpipe.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

That being said, could probably use armaflex tuff in some square rainwater downpipe.

I was thinking similar, but forgot about rwp and was thinking soil pipe

 

[oldbutnotdead]

You could use trace heating wire on a run that length- hide the 15mm plus trace + insulation in 50mm tube or trunking.

 

[dilalio]

Insuduct do one called Shallowduct, we used it to run an external supply along a 4m external wall where breaking ground wasn't an option. You can get it in white square ducting that is then just clipped to the wall. It is for 32/25mm as you suggest but I guess some cheaper 15mm insulation to increase it to fit may work

That being said, could probably use armaflex tuff in some square rainwater downpipe.

Cheers.
Just thinking how I would handle 90s and a tee! Inside the ducting?

 

[dilalio]

You could use trace heating wire on a run that length- hide the 15mm plus trace + insulation in 50mm tube or trunking.

Would that potentially heat the water inside the pipe?

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Would that potentially heat the water inside the pipe?

It'll warm it rather than heat it iyswim. The stuff I've got- actually just checked the specs, it's higher than I thought (20w/m, which has a running cost attached these days)- I need to do some sums. I'd be surprised if it would get near danger levels (for bacteria) but needs checking (used mine on a run to an electric shower so less of a concern).
Anyone got heatloss figures for standard cheap pipe lagging or do I need to do some experiments?

 

[Madrab]

Just thinking how I would handle 90s and a tee! Inside the ducting?

Depending on the size, then I would presume there would be plenty of space to handle fittings and then it could just be a case of cutting mitre's into the insulation and the ducts (like conduit) then gluing them back up once fitted together.

If using rainwater downpipe then just use elbows and again have the insulation mitred internally

 

[dilalio]

Depending on the size, then I would presume there would be plenty of space to handle fittings and then it could just be a case of cutting mitre's into the insulation and the ducts (like conduit) then gluing them back up once fitted together.

If using rainwater downpipe then just use elbows and again have the insulation mitred internally

Reckon that would look the best.
But still thinking how you'd glue the rwp 90s back up in an easy way? One cut and prise it apart or cut in half and glue thin edges back together?
Can you get a rwp Tee?

 

[HERTS P&D]

You can get a branch:

POLYPIPE BLK RWP BRANCH SQ BRS229

Square Downpipe Branch 112.5 Black 65mm Square Downpipe Branch - Brand: Polypipe - Size: 65mm - Angle Degree: 112.5 - Colour: Black - Material: PVC - Buildbase (Open to the Trade and Public)

www.buildbase.co.uk

Andy

 

[Madrab]

Yup, one cut straight across rather than a mitre maybe so it could be sat square on top before some cyanoacrylate adhesive with activator to put it back together would be my approach. Would try a couple of test pieces first just to get the technique right. Could even cut a spare one up and use pieces to support the glued one while it sets.

 

[dilalio]

Yup, one cut straight across rather than a mitre maybe so it could be sat square on top before some cyanoacrylate adhesive with activator to put it back together would be my approach. Would try a couple of test pieces first just to get the technique right. Could even cut a spare one up and use pieces to support the glued one while it sets.

I still can't visualise it!
Never could see things in words when a sketch says a 1000!

Can you pop a sketch up?
Or, I can and see if we're thinking along the same lines.

I'm thinking, cutting the 90 open has got to be big enough to fit the soldered pipe and the mitred insulation into it, before glueing the "L shaped" top back on!

I guess a few short lengths of plastic angle trim would help to secure the L shaped top plate, back on to the "in-situ" 90... A bit like an L shaped coffin... If that helps me describe what I'm thinking?

Yep... Mitre fix would be my go to glue for reinstating.

I'll try uploading a sketch later if this is as clear as mud! Lol.

 

[HERTS P&D]

Where is the job, as in what area?

Andy