Faulty Yale barrel lock - need advice
- Thread starter OM2
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Judging by the amount of dirt in the photos, I would be inclined to give it a good soak in a dish of paraffin or similar, whilst working the lock to get the dirt out. Then once it's clean and dry, add a drop of lub..
Oil can trap grit and dirt inside a lock, and make the parts stick. If you want to clean it in paraffin and dry it thoroughly that may help. It should not be oiled.
IMO the problem will be wear of the lock and keys. With multiple daily use it needs only a small difference to lose the precision fit. Never try to force a key. It sometimes helps to pull them out a fraction, or press them lightly up or down to take up slack. You should never use enough pressure to break a key. If it does not turn freely, it does not fit.
I am actually a lever-lock enthusiast, not Eurocylinder. I was trying to find a supplier that has a "order extra keys" scheme at modest price. A genuine local locksmith will do it, but price varies. I included an online merchant above. As you need quite a lot it may cost more than the cylinder itself, so look at the total cost. It ought to be better than getting extra keys made later by a cobbler.
For UK brands, I thought you could order a lock, with extra keys, made at the factory, but I can't see this on the Yale or ERA websites so perhaps it is no longer available.
Now that you have the measurements of the old one, you can easily get a new replacement, but I don't think we've seen it in the door so can't be sure it is the best size.
The inside knob makes it easy to get out in an emergency, but if you have glass in the door it can be broken for access. I have laminated glass in my front door but would not know how to add it to a plastic door. Don't leave a key in the keyhole.
With multipoint locks as used in plastic doors, a fault in the locking mechanism is quite common, and might make you think the cylinder is jammed. You mentioned you could not open it from inside either, which points that way.
IMO the problem will be wear of the lock and keys. With multiple daily use it needs only a small difference to lose the precision fit. Never try to force a key. It sometimes helps to pull them out a fraction, or press them lightly up or down to take up slack. You should never use enough pressure to break a key. If it does not turn freely, it does not fit.
I am actually a lever-lock enthusiast, not Eurocylinder. I was trying to find a supplier that has a "order extra keys" scheme at modest price. A genuine local locksmith will do it, but price varies. I included an online merchant above. As you need quite a lot it may cost more than the cylinder itself, so look at the total cost. It ought to be better than getting extra keys made later by a cobbler.
For UK brands, I thought you could order a lock, with extra keys, made at the factory, but I can't see this on the Yale or ERA websites so perhaps it is no longer available.
Now that you have the measurements of the old one, you can easily get a new replacement, but I don't think we've seen it in the door so can't be sure it is the best size.
The inside knob makes it easy to get out in an emergency, but if you have glass in the door it can be broken for access. I have laminated glass in my front door but would not know how to add it to a plastic door. Don't leave a key in the keyhole.
With multipoint locks as used in plastic doors, a fault in the locking mechanism is quite common, and might make you think the cylinder is jammed. You mentioned you could not open it from inside either, which points that way.
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BTW looking at the pics, the pattern of dirt suggests that the end of the old cylinder sticks out.
This makes it easy to grab with a simple burglar's tool and break off.
The end of the cylinder should preferably be flush with the external escutcheon or handle (and you can get extra strong ones for extra protection)
This makes it easy to grab with a simple burglar's tool and break off.
The end of the cylinder should preferably be flush with the external escutcheon or handle (and you can get extra strong ones for extra protection)
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Guys thanks for the replies.
@JohnD big thanks to the long replies - really appreciated.
The cylinder sticks out on both sides! When I originally replaced many years ago, I replaced like for like.
I had no idea it should be flush!
The amount it sticks out on both ends, I would say is 10mm!
See pics below.
So I need to get a 80mm euro cylinder?
Now thinking if I should replace lock or clean?
I don't have paraffin lying around. Could I use something else like spirit?
Oil - would WD40 be a bad idea?
But if wrong size... needs to be replaced regardless?
@JohnD big thanks to the long replies - really appreciated.
The cylinder sticks out on both sides! When I originally replaced many years ago, I replaced like for like.
I had no idea it should be flush!
The amount it sticks out on both ends, I would say is 10mm!
See pics below.
So I need to get a 80mm euro cylinder?
Now thinking if I should replace lock or clean?
I don't have paraffin lying around. Could I use something else like spirit?
Oil - would WD40 be a bad idea?
But if wrong size... needs to be replaced regardless?
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NOw you have the barrel out , I'd be checking how well it works turning the key, this will tell you if its the barrell are the Multipoint Lock Gearbox at fault. As you trun the key the centre bit should turn , apply a little pressure and see if it sticks at all.. if so its the barrel , if not then i suspect the gearbox to be at fault.
If you do replace it doesnt have to be YAle, pleanty of alternatives on th emarket that do anti drill, antisnap and antibump , but expect to be £15 upwards , depending on spec
He asked about the glass panels , as unless they are laminated they can be broken to turn a thumbturn, if within reach
Some BArrels come eith the option of extra keys on ebay
@JohnD , changing the glass in upvc should just be a simple case of getting a new sealed unit with Laminate , adjusting the size of spacer bar accordingly ( normally 2mm )
If you do replace it doesnt have to be YAle, pleanty of alternatives on th emarket that do anti drill, antisnap and antibump , but expect to be £15 upwards , depending on spec
He asked about the glass panels , as unless they are laminated they can be broken to turn a thumbturn, if within reach
Some BArrels come eith the option of extra keys on ebay
@JohnD , changing the glass in upvc should just be a simple case of getting a new sealed unit with Laminate , adjusting the size of spacer bar accordingly ( normally 2mm )
Graphite.
@ronniecabers I ordered a thumbturn from Tooltstation just now. If glass, then no a good idea to have I guess? It's double glazing glass - but I guess that doesn't make a difference?
Not Yale? I'll go for another make if you recommend?
Happy to order from the links given above.
www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08NSW5L7Z - does this one look OK?
Thanks.
Not Yale? I'll go for another make if you recommend?
Happy to order from the links given above.
www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08NSW5L7Z - does this one look OK?
Thanks.
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That one in your link should be absolutely fine
Why, because of the easily broken glass? Our front door uses a key at both sides and I leave a key in on the inside for easy escape. With the key in on the inside, it prevents a key being used from the outside. It's not a problem because normal entry/exit is via the side door.
sounds like you have a lever-action mortice lock.
a housebreaker can turn the key from the other side with a simple tool to unlock the door.
or, of course, break glass and open it.
in an emergency, an honest person trying to open the door will be unable to.
I have just had a look at it and...
If there is already a key in the door, another key can be inserted at the other side, but it cannot be turned. Not sure a simple tool would do it.
We only have a semi-circle of glass at the top of the door, so they would need very long arms to reach the key.
In an emergency, the key is always in the door to unlock it - so I don't understand your comment.
there is (at least) one.
The Amazon one was terrible! The key seemed less sturdy and clunky. Nothing like the existing Yale.
I've taken out the new one now and will be returning.
Yale Superior 1 Star vs 3 Star Platinum - which is better?
Getting keys cut and ordering online isn't that too expensive I just found out.
I've taken out the new one now and will be returning.
Yale Superior 1 Star vs 3 Star Platinum - which is better?
Getting keys cut and ordering online isn't that too expensive I just found out.
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