FCU To Flex Outlet Plate

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Is it acceptable to use flex to connect a FCU to a Flex outlet plate? (In a cavity)
 
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Cheers, just makes it easier to replace the appliance instead of using t&e - you would think the design of the flex outlet plates would be better (unless i'm looking at the wrong ones) Would be ideal if you didn't have to remove the whole plate to change stuff!
 
You do know you can get FCUs with a flex outlet?
 
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Yes I do, but this is for under counter appliances - fcu above worktop and flex outlet underneath (Not much room behind appliance for a unswitched socket and a plug) I'd rather not do it this way, but seems neater.
 
Cheers, just makes it easier to replace the appliance instead of using t&e
Sorry - this makes no sense.

You have T&E running to the supply terminals of the FCU - why can't you have T&E running from its load terminals to the supply terminals of the flex outlet plate?
 
I have, I'm thinking in advance - the design of the flex outlet plate i'm using (marbo) would mean leaving a length of t&e available so you can actually get to the terminals to wire the appliance in - flex being more flexible would mean I could leave a longer length of cable which I can then push back into the void. I've also considered ripping out the innards of the flex outlet plate and using wago flex connectors (Wago 224-101 Lighting Connector 0.5mm - 2.5mm) which can take 24amp) for even easier installation. (cable would still be secured using the cable grip).
 
I have, I'm thinking in advance - the design of the flex outlet plate i'm using (marbo) would mean leaving a length of t&e available so you can actually get to the terminals to wire the appliance in.
It's no different from or more difficult than having enough cable to be able to connect up a light switch or a socket.... :confused:
 
I know, I just like to think in advance and makes things easier (and usually over engineer everything in the process...) I mean this is an appliance that probably gets changed once in a blue moon too :oops:
 
Leave the normal amount of T/E in the back box, connect the flex to the plate first, then the plate to the T/E. Sorted..
 
Or you can use flex, as long as it is rated to the load.
 
Or if the appliance flex is long enough you could dispense with the flex outlet plate altogether - connect the backbox to that of the FCU with conduit, fix a piece of wood inside the backbox, and run the flex directly to the FCU.
 
I considered that too, but thought it would be a hassle to replace the appliance - fishing for the wire etc.

I'm liking the idea of the wago connectors - but like I said over engineered for a once in a blue moon swap :D

Strip out the innards, attach wago (27p each) to t&e, attach flex to plate with cord grip then press and insert the stripped flex, attach plate to wall.
 
fishing for the wire etc.
Appliance flex would push up a straight, 50cm-or-so run of conduit with no problems.


Strip out the innards, attach wago (27p each) to t&e, attach flex to plate with cord grip then press and insert the stripped flex, attach plate to wall.
If you find putting T/E into the screw terminals of flush accessories so tricky that you are prepared to go to those lengths to avoid it, maybe electrical installation work is not for you.

Fair enough if you could buy them like that, but "strip out the innards" is MUCH easier said than done.
 

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