'Fence-ographics' and installation pedants.

[Thermo]

i think the rawl bolts are normally 8mm for metpost bolt ons, but have some washers handy as well.

As for adapting the panels, try to do it at the end of a run, or where it will be obvious. As you have siad remove the battens from the end, and place and secure them to the new edge of the fence. I normally use a battery trim saw or a decent sharp andsaw to cut them. Lay them down so they are well supported when you cut them as they do flex a bit and can be a sod to cut if they are damp.

 

[Northbeach]

I'd set my mind on using a bit of concrete and loose stones/pebbles for reinforcment...then I read this:

...All fences have supporting posts, these are usually treated timber but concrete posts are sometimes used where a site is very wet or waterlogged. Wooden posts can be concreted in or bolted on to metal fixing spikes. You need to decide how you are fixing the posts before buying them as longer posts are needed if they are concreted in (up to a quarter of the length needs to be below ground) whereas only 10cm or so of the post is in the metal spike.

Should I ignore and carry on using concrete posts and the concrete fill? 1/4 of the length of the posts seems an awful lot - didn't I read to dig around 1 foot should suffice (only the first panel will be 5 foot - the rest 3 foot).

 

[Northbeach]

Have now received delivery of the fence...time to start putting the thing up!
Quick question on measuring; Is it the tried and tested method to place in the first concrete post, add the base panel and fence panel (push into the groove on the post) then use the end of the open end of the panels to give you the spot where the next post will go i.e. I shouldn't worry about measuring one post to the next merely add the post so the panels are both locked in (and thus not having to lift a 5 foot panel into the top of the post grooves from above)?

Them words above are probably all mixed up....but you get the drift

Cheers.

 

[JohnD]

that way does make the panels quite tight... but when you have one rot away or get broken, it will be very difficult to fit a replacement if you haven't allowed a little bit of freedom (remember, you're fitting the concrete posts so they will outlast the panels.

You're right, it's fairly difficult to lift and slide a new panel in... if it's not windy, two men can do it with steps each side. So far I've only had to do it after extreme winds. So I'd agree with doing your build by snuggling the new post up to the panel; just don't make it really tight.

 

[Northbeach]

Yes - I will allow a bit of leaway/leeway (?), this is a one man job I'm afraid (can't get the missus to help out!!) so it's my only option...fortunately I only have 3 of the larger (8'9" posts) to add the rest are the smaller option (21 metres worth).
I cocked up a little and didn't order a 3 way groove post (for a kind of T junction bit of fencing (see the ZX81 graphic on the Refuse Area post!) - I guess I'l have to go back on the phone (don't really fancy lugging one of these around in the motor).

Cheers.

 

[megawatt]

I must admit that I generally set all the posts using the gravel boards as spacers and then get someone to help me drop in all the panels when the posts are set.
If you sit panels between posts in wet concrete make sure all is well braced and there is no wind at all, not even a breeze or the whole lot will end up on the lawn ... Don't underestimate the forces generated by the panels against the posts, it is a large surface area ... I did once ... I've never laughed so much in years (once I got over the shock)

 

[Thermo]

with concrete posts and gravel boards i always use the method of putting the board and panel in and then the next post in next to it (having measured it first and dug the whole. That way you can get the gravel board level and you end up with a neater job with the panels. I often work on my own and its near impossible to lift a wet 6ft panel in opn your own!

 

[megawatt]

Which just goes to show that there are always many ways to get the job done

 

[Thermo]

absolutley and you always have to do it a different way on certain jobs, to what youre used to!

 

[Northbeach]

Thanks folks!
Have been too busy of late to install said fencing...as such the fence and gravel boards et al have been sat on the front lawn looking all...forlorn...

But I have a bit of spare time this week so should be able to finish the jobs!
I may have had the following answered in other threads but can't for the life of me find them (used the Search function etc).

*Have I remembered correctly in that I should dig 1' 9"' down for the concrete posts (and does this apply to the 7'9" posts as well as the 5'9" posts?).

*And how much do I need to dig either side of the posts when creating the hole for them...an inch wider than the post all the way around?

i'll scan my plan in when I get the chance. The tricky bit is the 'boxed' in section (3 sides)...I've had to smash away at the concrete on an existing 8 foot post so I can snug a new one next to it (it didn't have a groove for a new fence).

 

[Northbeach]

...and is it necessary (I've read this) to purchase a stock of hardcore for this project...I read this:

...You will need to buy posts, at least 600mm (2ft) higher than the fence, and a supply of hardcore (broken bricks and large stones) to ram around each post before putting in the concrete. you can hire a tool call a post auger to make digging the holes more easy....

Ram more hardcore around the post, leaving a hole 300mm (1ft) deep...

Cheers once again!